Sonar, transducers and slush

[Chawazz]

Hey all,

I bought a Lowrance X-67 ice pack from Cabela's a couple of years ago. Overall, I've been very happy with the set-up. It came with the 'vex-style' float conversion for the transducer. It also had the softpack zipper case.

The issues I've had have been:

1) Since I hole hop most of the time, at the end of the day the softpack is normally wet, ice packed on the bottom, and slushy inside. So, I disassemble and dry hang up the pack to dry and wipe everything down.
2) Transducer depth. Since I fish in the UP and ice gets 2 ft thick, I find I need to control the depth the ducer is below the ice for better readings.
3) Transducer cord control. I've had the transducer slip through the float and yank the cord to the end. Also, having extra cord around the hole is a line hazard.
4) Transducer and line tangling. Need to keep line catchers to a minimum.

So I've been tweaking some, and I thought I'd share ideas and ask form others. I know this type of info has been in various threads over the years.

I got the idea of using the bottom of a 5-gal bucket for a slush fighter base from another M-S member (forgot who, sorry). I used a 3 1/2 gal bucket and cut is down. I am keeping most of it 5-1/2" high so I can add a snow condom later if needed. I have to say though, I've had plenty of snow on the components with no issue. The height also seems good for cord control and general kick protection.

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/sonar0005.JPG
overall set-up (not field tested yet)
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/sonar0004.JPG
Taped cord to rod for strain relieve to 'ducer. Replaced wingnut with acorn nut for less line tangles.

more...

[ih772]

Looks good. I'd get rid of the rod and let the transducer hang freely.

[Chawazz]

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/sonar0012.JPG

this is the part I'm looking for better ideas. I want to have an adjustable stop on the cord to set the 'ducer depth. I don't want any line grapping clamps. But I doubt my rubber band plan will hold (pun intended).

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/sonar0010.JPG

added tape to mark deepest point before rod comes out of float (an annoying occurance)

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/sonar0007.JPG

I used the existing frame and attached to the base with stainless screws and wingnuts in case I want to clean between. The whole thing comes apart and back together quick for fast drying. I will go back to the softpack for boat use, but I'm hoping these mods will help the slush, ice and cord issues of hole hoppin'. I'll report back after field testing. And I appreciate more ideas (especially with pics!)

Scott

[tommy-n]

Thats why I prefer the genz boxes and Ice ducers, it make hole hoping easier and less problems with ice,slush and set up

[Chawazz]

Looks good. I'd get rid of the rod and let the transducer hang freely.

Yep, that's a good suggestion. That would allow eliminate some tangle points, allow the ducer to self-level, and eliminate the max depth issue.

Thanks,

[ih772]

Here's what I used as a stopper on my iceducer. Its a rubber foot, like the kind you see on the bottom of your grandma's walker.

One of the things you may want to do with your float is to start cutting foam off until it floats vertically in the hole. It takes up the least amount of room that way.

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/stopper1.jpg

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/stopper3.jpg

[wildcoy73]

Why not just spend the few bucks and buy a vex float and stopper?
Very easy to adjust the depth when needed, and never had the transducer slip from the stop or the float.
Once in a while fish will tangle in the ducer but found with a bigger hole the problem is alot less. only have to watch this when using a 4 inch or 5 inch hole.
From what set up you have going seeams like alot of trouble.
MAN I LOVE MY VEX EVEN MORE AFTER SEEING THAT PIC!

[wally-eye]

I "always" set my 67 on top of a overturned bucket just to keep the bag dry plus its easier to see. I also got the vex float, ripped that ugly vex sticker off and when installed on the transducer cable it fits in the bag excellent. Entirely got rid of the arm and rod. Takes no time when you hole hop. Grab the bucket, turn it over and throw the 67 inside and then move, just that quick.........and at the end of the day when you bring the 67 inside to warm up and charge the bag is still nice and dry.

[Kelly Johnson]

My bag got pretty sloppy as well.

I didn't have an extra bucket so I just use a milk crate.
I out the crate sideways with the top opening facing me and put the x67 on top. Keeps it clean and like Dan said...when ya move ya flip it, drop the machine in and away you go.

I made a simple float from a "pool noodle".
I cut 7-8" off and sliced through the middle of it...trimmed 1.5" from it lengthwise to shrink the center hole and zip tied it around the cord. Works perfectly.

I really don't need the stop...I cinched the zip ties just tight enough to slide with some pressure but hold the 'ducer up but I did add a small clip to it that I had laying around from an old telephone earpiece.

I ALWAYS pop 2 holes....one for the 'ducer and another right next to it for my line. I try to get the 'ducer bottom just a hair below flush with the bottom of the ice and I've never had them tangle. I usually use a 4" hand auger so the holes can be pretty close.

[Kelly Johnson]

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=5578
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=9&pictureid=5579

[tommy-n]

I look at some of those pictures I thought I was watching the red/green show:yikes:

what a bunch of cobble jobs:lol:

[Chawazz]

I look at some of those pictures I thought I was watching the red/green show:yikes:

what a bunch of cobble jobs:lol:

yeah, I think I knew that and that's why I was asking for ideas. I like the very simple float set-up by ih772, I went and cleaned it up after his pic. I didn't know what to use as a stop, I was looking at plumbing and electrical supplies at the hardware, didn't know the answer was at the pharmacy :D

I have some other ideas to simplfy the set-up that I may work on. It's a process, not an event ;)

[tommy-n]

I personally don't like the float at all, it serves no purpose, sea nypho set up is not bad. Does'nt lowrance make a transducer with the softer cable where it goes straight out the top?

[tommy-n]

I have two different stops that work fine, both made of rubber with a slit in the side. There both vexilar products that should work on anything. I also have a freind that uses a downrigger release with rubber pinch pads that also works good, it's mounted directly to his box

[Chawazz]

I personally don't like the float at all, it serves no purpose, sea nypho set up is not bad. Does'nt lowrance make a transducer with the softer cable where it goes straight out the top?

Actually, the cable comes straight out of the top and the cable is quite soft; probably couldn't tell from my photos. You're right, you don't need the float to see what is happening down below. Having no float would have the advantage of taking up less real estate. It simplifies the set-up which I like. My float is small diameter and I'm using 6 or 8 inch holes. The only advantage that I can think of (which I use from time to time) is that the depth reading might be more consistent without thinking about the controlling the cord. We sometimes use this to analyze small changes in depth or structure after drilling a bunch of holes. One guy drills the other is dropping the ducer down the hole and with the float you just plop it down and hang onto the sonar.

Thanks for the ideas.

[ih772]

One purpose of my float, is to make it a lot easier to pull the transducer out of the hole to keep it from getting wrapped up in my line. In the heat of battle, its a lot easier to grab a float than it is a narrow wire. If you have a large fish that makes a run with your line wrapped around the wire, it will cut the insulation on the wire and allow water inside. Also if its tangled, its easy for a fish to get off because you can't control the slack in the line.

On small panfish I won't usually pull it out, I will for bigger fish like walleye, pike, or dinner plate sized crappie. Most of the time I have three holes drilled, two for rods and one in the middle for sonar.

[tommy-n]

Yep, sorry I could not tell, almost look like it came from the side, maybe that was the one with the zip tie. I guess after using mine for so long the way I have them rigged it's not a problem pulling the cord up, well actually the genz box has the big handle to just grab the whole unit and move it away from the hole. Along time ago we had them rigged with arms and we thought that was great, down to the saginaw river where your lure was somewhat downstream we would angle the transducer to pick it up but after awhile realized there was a big dead spot when the fish came off bottom and started drilling a seperate hole slightly downstream so the tranducer was vertical.