A few questions from a novice.....

[DGF]

I'm thinking about getting into reloading,and have a few questions for you pros:

1) After how many shots will I need to trim the brass because of stretching, and how many times can this be done without making the brass to weak?

2) What is the easiest way to check for seating depth in my rifle? (.270) Once found, how do I make sure all the rounds are seated exactly the same?

3) Is it always best to start with a low charge and work up, or would it be easier to start at the top, and work down?

4) Anyone know of any combinations that seem to shoot good from a browning medallion .270? (looking for a good starting point to experment with)

Thanks for all help!



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>>>~~DAN~~~>

[Hunt4Ever]

I'm not an expert reloader, but here I go:

1. I don't notice much in case stretch. You will find that the necks will crack, and promer pockets will wear out when a case is about shot out. I can easilly get 5-6 loadings out of a case and I push my loads a little. Also, not all brass is the same. Some is better than others. I like Federal brass the best, not the nickle stuff, then Winchester. There are some very good imports like Lapua, and Norma, but they are expensive. I have used them before and they are good.

2. Seating depth can be found with a seating depth tool. Any reloading catalog will have them. You will also need a good micrometer.

3. You want to start at the bottom because you are looking for signs of pressure in your cases. To much pressure and you will blow the head off your case, not be able to get the bolt open, all sorts of stuff that gets very dangerous. I have found the loading books are conservative with the numbers. I start at least 1 grain below max and work up in half grain steps. I have, in rare instances, exceeded recommended max loads. It just depends on to many things to list.

4. I have no idea on .270 loads. I load .22-250, .223, .243

I will say that reloading is pretty fun. You can greatly increase your accuracy by handloading. I have found that my greatest increases in accuracy are gained not from more powder but less, and a change in bullet seating depth, and primers. You will spend quite a bit of time just trying different combinations.

Have Fun! :D :D

[yoda]

Here's a easy way to check you seating depth for YOUR rifle. resize and deprime one of your cases. make a slit in the neck of that case(down to where the shoulder startes) now clean off all the bures, next push a bullet into the case mouth (make sure you leave it sticking out long). then chamber that round, then open the bolt,(this is a gentel operation) remove the case and measure the over all length, do this a few times to make sure. this will tell you how long the OAL length is for that make of BULLET to touch the lands, REMEMBER, every time you change to a differant bullet you need to redo this operation, example would be going from a 130gr sierra Pro-Hunter to a 130gr sierra GameKing, you need to remeasure because of the differant Ogive of the bullets..

[Mr. 16 gauge]

Dan,
In answer to your questions:
1.) I have found that trimming brass varies from firearm to firearm; I always have to trim brass (even factory fired rounds) shot out of my M-14 the first time. But I have yet to trim any of my .44 magnum cases, and some of them have been fired as many as 8-10 times. I like the LEE brand case trimmers, as they automatically cut the case to the proper length.
2.) the abouve two posts for seating depth are good advice.
3.) Always, ALWAYS start low and work up: a load that is safe in one rifle may not be safe in another, even if it is the same make and model. An important part of reloading is finding out what works and what doesn't in YOUR particular firearm.
3.) I don't reload for the .270, but I would suggest that you start with whatever bullet weight you are currently using for deer and start there. 130 grains seem to be the most popular, and all the ammo makers make a bullet in this weight. I would suggest that you get a few loading manuals and find a powder that is used in all of them and start with one make of powder and vary your bullets (over time of course). Then vary the powder, ect. Dont forget to keep careful records as to how each load performs. Good luck and keep us posted. We're here to help.

[dogjaw]

Buy a good reloading manual like from Speer. Along with reloading data, they have a complete section on how to reload, with answers to all your questions. I use a Lee trimmer for my rifle brass. It's nothing more than a cutter with a screw in pin to trim to the proper depth. I chuck the shell holder in my battery powered drill, and turn the case. Works well and it's cheap.

[K-DOGG]

we trim all of our case's everytime we reload them,as far as seating depth goes,get a good reloading manual,manual will tell you max cartridge length,start in the middle of the overall length and set your bullet's out a little at a time(.002-.003)until you get the performance you are after,your gun will let you know where it like's it best at.Get a set of machinist calipers,if you are not familiar with reading dial calipers,a set of electronic digital calipers will make it easier to read them.As far as powder charge,resort back to your loading manual as it will give you a mininum and a maximum load,DON'T go under the minimum charge as to little powder can cause dangerous chamber pressure's as well as maximum load's,start 1/2 a grain over minimum and work your way up.Not sure about .270 load's but all of my 22-250 gun's seem to like the middle end of the chart.good luck,remember safety first.