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mipete
08-12-2008, 08:37 AM
Has anyone had this problem? I shoot a hoyt set at 62 lbs, with easton axis 400's, 100 gr heads, with a wisker biscuit rest. My bow shoots great groups the only thing is when I get to the target instead of my arrows being straight in to it they are off at a little angle to the left. Should I move my rest? If so which way? I don't have a way to paper tune it. Any help or thoughts on this would be appreciated. Thanks




Michihunter
08-12-2008, 08:42 AM
Any chance you got a picture of what you are describing? Do BH's and FP's do the same thing? Do they group together (BH's and FP's)Have you tried increasing or decreasing Draw Weight to see if it's a spine issue? Lipstick or powder your fletch to check for contact?

mipete
08-12-2008, 08:49 AM
Broadheads and field points enter the target at the same point. rear of arrow is a little to the left. I checked the chart and the easton 400's were what was called for. I shoot blazer fletching and I have the small insert for my buscuit. can't go much lower on poundage bow is a 60-70.

Michihunter
08-12-2008, 08:52 AM
Are you noticing any wear or marks on one of your vanes? Are you shooting cock vane up? Could be the target too. Foam? Bag? Layered? Unless it's causing penetration issues, I personally wouldn't worry about it. But I'd check for contact first.

mipete
08-12-2008, 09:06 AM
No wear marks on any of my vanes. Vanes are rotated so the cock vane is up and the 2 are missing the black stiff bristles on the rest. I am shooting into a new block target. I wore out my other target last year but it did the same thing.

Michihunter
08-12-2008, 09:08 AM
Does that angle change any (open/close) at other distances? Or does it remain a consistent angle?

Kelly Johnson
08-12-2008, 09:22 AM
I'll share my secret for evaluating arrow flight...

Have a buddy stand directly behind you and watch the arrow.

If he sees anything other than a veritable laser to the target I make adjustments.:D

Crude, I know. But it's proved effective.
I sometimes have the video tape it so I can see for myself.

I haven't shot through paper in years and do most of my tuning "by eye" and feel...if you do it enough and look at it logically it's really not that difficult at all.

If you have the same POI for Bheads and field points at longer distances I wouldn't worry about it at all.

rowboat
08-12-2008, 09:46 AM
Shoot an arrow at 5yrds then step back to 30 yards and aim at the
1st arrow. The 2nd arrow should drop straight below the 1st arrow.
If your group is off to one side you know the bow tune is out.
Is your block anchored down and not moving at all right?
...Bruce

symen696
08-12-2008, 10:29 PM
If you have your own target, build a simple paper tuning box. Otherwise do what what kj said and have a buddy stand behind you. I have done that since I started shooting twenty or so years ago. You can definetly see how a arrows flying from behind a shooter.

Steve
08-12-2008, 11:00 PM
Paper tuning a bow is really pretty easy and is well within the means of anyone to do. I do it every year in my basement (at least to check things). See the how-to on our site http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/hunting_articles/tuning.htm

mipete
08-13-2008, 09:09 AM
Thanks for the help. I will see what I can come up with as far as making a paper turing stand. I do belive I need to move my rest out just a little bit to correct the fletch left problem. Thanks again for all the help

hunts2much
08-13-2008, 04:41 PM
I would suggest something along the lines of what rowboat mentioned. It's called walkback tuning and is very easy. Shoot 3 arrows at a spot on your target from 15 yards. Leave your arrows in the target. Now step back to 30 yards and shoot 3 more arrows at the same spot. Obviously this group of three will be lower than the first group at 15 yards. Now step back to 45 yards and shoot a final group of 3 at the very same spot you aimed at for the first 2 groups. You should end up with 3 groups of 3 arrows that are stacked in a straight line on top of each other. If your groups go to the left the farther out you shoot then your center shot is most likely off a bit. Move your rest to the right in this case in very small steps until you have a straight up and down group at all distances. If the groups are to the right then obviously move the rest the left. This is how I find my center shot and have had a lot better luck with arrow flight doing this then paper tuning for center shot. AFTER I do this I do paper tune at different distances just for knock height. This strategy has worked very good for myself and friends I have helped in the past.

EDIT: I wanted to mention only use one pin for this test. Use your 15 yard pin or the closest pin you have regardless of the distance.

symen696
08-13-2008, 04:45 PM
I had the same problem when I first got my bow, tried the walk back. Just seemed easier to me to build a paper tuner. Then again Im a carpenter. Couple 2x4s and a peice of paper

hunts2much
08-13-2008, 04:53 PM
I had the same problem when I first got my bow, tried the walk back. Just seemed easier to me to build a paper tuner. Then again Im a carpenter. Couple 2x4s and a peice of paper

It's not so much difficult to build the paper tune stand... I've built plenty and I do still use them for knock height... It's getting a good and consistent read on the paper tear that frustrates me, regardless of paper used... I've personally just had better luck walk back tuning than paper tuning for center shot. Different strokes for different folks I guess.

GVDocHoliday
08-13-2008, 09:27 PM
If you're using fixed blade broadheads...and your field points and broadhead tipped arrows have the same POI, then you're set to go. Any perceived angle of the arrow in the target could simply be that you're not as square to the target as you think you are, or the target is not a consistent medium and is causing the arrows to ender at an angle.

TJHUNTER
08-14-2008, 07:41 AM
Why would having the vane straight up make a difference? just wondering because i switched all my set up this year and been putting the vane straight down in my wisker biscut. thanks.

Michihunter
08-14-2008, 07:45 AM
Why would having the vane straight up make a difference? just wondering because i switched all my set up this year and been putting the vane straight down in my wisker biscut. thanks.The newer biscuits have two different types of bristles with the bottom most being stiffer. Having the vanes go through different stiffness's of bristles can lead to erratic flight characteristics

mipete
08-15-2008, 07:19 AM
Just to let you guys know I got a chance to shoot last night and I moved my rest in. Not very much maybe a 32nd or 16th of an inch and my arrows were hitting into the target perfect. So anyone that has noticed this problem (arrow hitting target fletching left) with a wisker buisct rest try moving your rest. I appreciate everyones feed back. Thanks again. everones input is what makes this site great.

Michihunter
08-15-2008, 07:26 AM
Glad to hear it. Just remember, a tiny adjustment can go a long way. ;)

symen696
08-16-2008, 09:42 PM
It's not so much difficult to build the paper tune stand... I've built plenty and I do still use them for knock height... It's getting a good and consistent read on the paper tear that frustrates me, regardless of paper used... I've personally just had better luck walk back tuning than paper tuning for center shot. Different strokes for different folks I guess.
Whats funny is I usaully do walk back when I set up other peoples bows and paper tune my own. Or have someone stand behind. But like you said different stokes, as long is its on the money who cares how you get to that point.