Tuning a Cross Bow...

[Joe Archer]

Last year I was trying to help a semi-disabled hunter set up and tune his crossbow for hunting season. I believe (but am not certain) that it was a 175 pound Horton with cams. I sighted the bow in with field points, but had to re-sight it in for fixed-blade broadheads. After I had it sighted in dead-nuts for 25 yards, one identical broadhead and arrow combination would shoot different than the next. I just could not get consistency with this bow at all!
I have been tuning and shooting compounds forever, but was pretty helpless with the crossbow.
Can someone PLEASE supply some tricks of the trade. For the record the hunter reported back to me that he ended up missing a buck at 20 yards! I would like to remedy this problem for him this coming season.
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[BigBirdVA]

If the field points shot and grouped good it was the fixed blade heads causing issues. Try different heads if you're hung on fixed. Slick Tricks did well for me in a fixed head. Small heads are better for xbows. Stay lethal and legal when picking a fixed head.

Try different broadheads. Go to mechanicals. Rockets do well and so do several others.

Cocking it straight? Off to one way or the other will make you miss. Take some white out and mark a line around the string on each side of the rail. That way when it's cocked you can see if it's off one way or the other. A little off makes a huge difference downrange.

Try different arrows. Watch the weight don't shoot too light but different ones do fly better than others. This is one variable you can change to tune on a xbow as you're limited in many other areas.

Check for tiller on the limbs.

Need to make sure the cams are in time with each other.

String/cables are good and not stretched?

Product defects? Limbs or other issues?

[Kelly Johnson]

Boresite?:confused:
:evilsmile

[Riva]

It's a costly "experiment" to hone in on the correct broadhead and, it's not an exclusive challenge to just crossbow users. Nobody likes to invest $20-$30 to find out if a broadhead "flies right" but, to be an ethical hunter, we all know that it is an investment we must make.

Some years ago, I finally zero'd in on Vortex 125's mechanical. For my poundage and speed, they fly just like a field point out to 25 yards which is my self-imposed limit in the field.

I would also suggest that you simply call the manufacturer direct and ask their recommendation. Don't discount the advice about the sting alignment. It can definately make you miss the target even at short distances.

[sputty]

Stay with lighter heads. I've shot deer w/ spit-fires, thunderheads, and currently use 3 blade muzzys which group nicely for me (all 100 grains). The mechanicals do fly nice, but I question their durability. Make sure you are cocking the string back at the same points. Make sure your sights or scope are secure. Also some bows prefer flat knocks and some like the half-moon(check what the manufacter recomends). Hope this helps.

[Joe Archer]

Thanks! I think it was most likely the arrow spine and broadhead weight combination. I'll try lighter heads and even see what happens when I shoot it through paper and try varying field point weight.
I like the idea of marking the string to be sure the bow is drawn consistently, but am reasonably sure it wasn't a factor in this case because of repeatability with the arrows. One conistently hit the bulls-eye while another consistently flew high.
In any case, keep the tips coming. I am sure others can benefit as well.
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[marty]

I was told by a pro shop that when cocking a crossbow you should always use a cocker. Cocking a crossbow by hand can be off a bit and can cause a diffrence point of impact. any truth in that??

i use 100 grain spitfires and had good luck with them.......m:D

[awshucks]

I put together a Horton HD 175 for a friend a year or so ago. It was a package deal. Shot good w/ field points but was 10" low right at 30 yds w/ Slick Trick 100 gr heads. No rhyme or reason why. Horton told me "just use mechanicals". So much for calling the mfgr. A few other guys have had a similar problem and tons haven't. I think it was a bow specific problem, but wanted to share the experience. Good Luck!

[IceDaddy]

There is so, so much confusion, If a Crossbow is so much easier to use than a vertical bow, Is it safe to Assume, it's also Easier to miss with one as well?:D

[TOW]

I was told by a pro shop that when cocking a crossbow you should always use a cocker. Cocking a crossbow by hand can be off a bit and can cause a diffrence point of impact. any truth in that??

Yep..

Joe ,

Consider the off center string the same as an improperly nocked (high or low) arrow.

i use 100 grain spitfires and had good luck with them.......m:D

Me too.. Same POI as my field points.. love it.

[marty]

How aboutthis one??:evil: how do you get those noks out of a carbon bolt??. I got a couple I need to replace and those babys are in their goodly:D

[BigBirdVA]

How aboutthis one??:evil: how do you get those noks out of a carbon bolt??. I got a couple I need to replace and those babys are in their goodly:DNo way to do that safely. Heat it too much and it's toast or possibly weakened and you can't see it. Exploding arrows are not fun.

[TOW]

How aboutthis one??:evil: how do you get those noks out of a carbon bolt??. I got a couple I need to replace and those babys are in their goodly:D

What kind of nocks?

[marty]

Both moon and flat. Some are broken and chip. I've got some new noks but they seem to glued in very well. tried picking one out but it seems it would do to much damage to the arrow. Do they super glue those in anyway??

Aligment on flat noks seems easy but moon noks have to fit the string right so what do you want to glue them in with ?? thanks a bunch all.......m:D

[awshucks]

May hardly be worth the effort, but if hot melt glued in, you can grind the half moon flat, use as is, or drill and tap an 8-32 hole in them, put threaded rod in and heat rod w/ small propane torch well away from carbon shaft and replace them w/ flat nocks. i use the same alum flat as come w/ Excal arrows which already have the threaded hole and are hot melt glued in, easy to swap the string serving eating dinged ones out.

[TOW]

To be honest I have never replaced a plastic nock yet.

I'm guessing if I was going to do that I would just drill the old one out??

For the aluminum nocks/inserts that I have changed out I used a long 8/32 screw.

I had a nut on the screw. I screwed the screw into the nock/insert. Then I tightened down the nut to the top of the nock/insert. I then clamped the end of the screw in a vice and started heating the screw with a torch. I never put the torch on the shaft itself. I keep a steady pull on the shaft and as soon as the shaft starts to slip I remove the torch and just keep pulling.

I hope that you understand what I'm trying to say here.

I've changed many like that and haven't damaged a shaft yet.

[marty]

These are carbon shafts. On a couple the nok has been force into the arrow. I think from hitting too hard of a target. Some are cracked and still good but can't figure how to get the stupid nok out without trashing the carbon shaft??

i think they glued them real well:D heat is out.:mad: tried twisting them but no way MY TOWN :yikes:here not a lot of places to buy crossbow stuff either.:sad: