My boat is leaking......help !

[HemlockNailer]

Need help ! I have a 1994 Starcraft 19 ft. SFM w/ 115 hp Merc OB. I bought the boat last year, I later discovered that it leaks. I trailer the boat, so it is usually in the water for only the day. Upon examination of the hull I found two rivets side by side that had sheared off, which I repaired. Also I plugged the inlet and outlet holes for the live well. Still the boat takes on a gallon or more of water each trip. I have noticed several rivets that appear to have water drip marks draining from them when the boat is on the trailer for several days. Has anyone had this problem or know of a cure. Alan

[ESOX]

All aluminum boats take on some water, especially when running in rough seas, and as the water cools. A gallon a day is hardly what I would consider even worth looking for. When I'm running in high seas, my bilge pump will often kick on every 10-20 miles. Normal in my book.

[Wannafish]

I have a Starcraft Aluminum 22 ft Holiday I just acquired, and in looking it over I observed several rivets that appear less correct than those around it, (the only thing I have to go by.)

If I were to remove, (assume drill them out) how do I go about replacing them? Do I need to go to the dealer?

I am assuming there will be some need of maintainence as this is a 1974 boat, so it has some use on it, and I would like to know how to do these things rather than take it in.

In actuality, I haven't even had the time to put it in the water, yet.

[gottafish]

I saw a vendor at the Pt Moulliee duck show that had aluminum weld/brazing rods for just such repairs......used with a regular propane torch...bought some to repair transom crack in rowboat, haven't got around to doing it yet...it's name is A-16 products, phone# 248 682 8778

[IT pimp 2002]

Unless the weld is a brand new method I understand that you NEVER weld below the waterline.
Replacing rivots is not that hard. Drill out buy new ones and with an air tool instal the new ones. I did my smokercraft about 75 of them and it works. I wouldnt replace rivits that are not damaged and if you are looking to stop minor leaks, repaceing rivots is not the best way to do it. Like above posts all metal boats leak a little.

[Foxy Carp]

Try JB Weld. Just gob it on the inside and outside of the hull and cross your fingers. This way might not be as productive as the previously listed repairs but it would be cheap and easy. I have some on my alluminum boat on a fairly large hole and it holds like a charm.

[HemlockNailer]

I found a phone # for Starcraft customer service. The guy I spoke to told me to flood the inside of the boat and watch for leaks on the outside. This done I found 6 rivets that leak, he told me that the only recommended repair was to replace the rivets. Since my boat has a floor this would be a major job. I did use the JB Weld but have not had the boat in the water yet. I would like to try a self tapping ,flat head screw with a seal for next season. Any thoughts ? Alan

[ESOX]

You don't have to remove the floor, you drill out the rivets and replace them from the outside. Just make sure you have a good rivet gun and the right sized drill bit.

[HemlockNailer]

ESOX, if I use a conventional " pop rivet" as you suggest wont the water come in through the draw pin that expands the rivet ? Also, how long of a rivet would I have to use to pull the skin tight to the frame member ? Alan

[ESOX]

Contact Starcraft as to the specs for the rivet size for your particular applicatin. The water doesnt leak around the mandrel, as the aluminum that is deformed to expand the rivet pulls tightly around the mandrel, forming a water tight seal. They use pop rivets all the time for other watertight applications such as gutters, water tanks, etc.

[HemlockNailer]

ESOX, thanks for the help I will contact Starcraft and follow your suggestion. Alan

[notfishing]

They make what is called a blind pop rivet just for this.