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BigDan
06-16-2008, 08:41 AM
Inherited a boat with a 5.7 engine, OMC I/O unit. Last sticker on boat is from 1992. Boat was winterized before being stored in barn. What would you do to this boat prior to starting the engine?
What should I look for?
Thanks,
BigDan




cointoss
06-16-2008, 09:39 AM
Hope and Pray.
Seriously, check hoses for dry rot; check bellows on outdrive for cracks; fluids in out drive and engine; shift linkage and overall appearence. Sometimes mud daubbers can fill very small cavities with mud and mice can build nests in exhausts and intakes. I would roll it over before trying to start engine and then go from there. I suspect that you could have problems with waterpump impeller from setting and being dry after that length of time.

SalmonBum
06-16-2008, 10:00 AM
RV antifreeze is made with alcohal, which evaporates over time. There is a small chance that it could have lost its effectiveness over that many yrs. If No fluid was used and it was winterized DRY, then there will be heavy rust due to empty chambers having condensation.

john warren
06-16-2008, 11:11 AM
check and replace any hoses or other rubber bits . replace water impeller. summerise boat. i.e. oilechange,lower end service....
remove plugs and spray fogging oil into cylinders. using a wrench turn engine by hand and spray again. replace plugs and crank a few seconds to get oile into all the galeries. then go ahead and try to start it. it should smoke like crazy for a bit from the fogging oil , but will then clear up and start to idle proper.
my guess is your biggest problems will be caroded contacts and wires. expect to chase some gremlins till you get it sorted out.Inherited a boat with a 5.7 engine, OMC I/O unit. Last sticker on boat is from 1992. Boat was winterized before being stored in barn. What would you do to this boat prior to starting the engine?
What should I look for?
Thanks,
BigDan

pescadero
06-16-2008, 11:41 AM
For the motor:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086

...a word of caution - check out the boat itself also. It may have a rotten transom, stringers, or deck - or all three.

--
lp

FERG 06
06-16-2008, 09:03 PM
No one has said anything about the fuel. Even if Stabilized that's only good for a year. I'm thinking gummed up carb, fuel lines, tank. Possible water in the tank from condensation.

FishTales
06-16-2008, 10:04 PM
No one has said anything about the fuel. Even if Stabilized that's only good for a year. I'm thinking gummed up carb, fuel lines, tank. Possible water in the tank from condensation.

I don't know where everyone gets this idea. :dizzy: :confused:

I put my boat up in the fall of 2001 and put it back in service in May of 2005.
The fuel was not stabilized and she started right up.

The only problem I had after sitting that long was I had to clean my fuel pump.
Rich

FERG 06
06-16-2008, 11:14 PM
I don't know where everyone gets this idea. :dizzy: :confused:
The only problem I had after sitting that long was I had to clean my fuel pump.
Rich

The info is out there all over the place. I deal with it every week. Cleaning out carbs with old fuel in them. Machines that won't start and all they need to get going is to dump the fuel and replace w/new. And if they had water in the fuel it corrodes the carb. Every manufacter of small engines recommends not using fuel more then 60 days old. If it's not good to do to a engine that costs $100, why do it to an engine that costs $2000 & up. I've got a tech manual where they ran an engine on nothing but old fuel for a number of hours then tore it apart. Not good. Just cause yours ran alright doesn't mean it was in ideal condition on the inside.
Your statement about the fuel pump is enough evidence in itself.
Not trying to start anything but you can do whatever you want. As for me, I'll do everything I can to protect my toys.
If you ever want to see some examples of old gas or gummed up/corroded carbs let me know or stop by my shop.

waterfoul
06-17-2008, 12:12 AM
I always like to put a little Marvel Mysery Oil (just what is the mystery anyway??) down each cylinder before rolling it over by hand (wrench).

Change oil
Change plugs (careful trying to get them out!!)
Check all hoses
Change fuel/water seperator
If it has gas in it you might consider drawing gas from an external gas can till you get it up and running
Change water pump impeller
Check all electrical connectors... battery, ignition, pull the dist. cap off and make sure contacts are clean, check alternator connections... etc....

TONGA
06-17-2008, 08:20 AM
First check out the boat to make sure it is seaworthy and also make sure the motor is not froze up ,then start at the top of the motor and work your way to the prop. Get a manual and run all the maintenance procedures. Fuel system fuel system, ignition, lube ,bellows and so on ,,, also check out every electrical connection on the boat and don’t forget the blower motor and make sure the gas tank vent is not plugged.
You no fine tooth comb approach and remember “IT IS A LONG WALK HOME FROM A BOAT RIDE!”

BigDan
06-17-2008, 08:54 AM
Thanks for all the info guys, Although I hoped to hear " crank her up, she'll be fine", I didn't really expect it. Looks like a couple of weekends before the first try. Will let you know when its going.
Thanks again
Dan

john warren
06-18-2008, 08:05 AM
sometimes everything works fine.....sometimes it doesn;tThe info is out there all over the place. I deal with it every week. Cleaning out carbs with old fuel in them. Machines that won't start and all they need to get going is to dump the fuel and replace w/new. And if they had water in the fuel it corrodes the carb. Every manufacter of small engines recommends not using fuel more then 60 days old. If it's not good to do to a engine that costs $100, why do it to an engine that costs $2000 & up. I've got a tech manual where they ran an engine on nothing but old fuel for a number of hours then tore it apart. Not good. Just cause yours ran alright doesn't mean it was in ideal condition on the inside.
Your statement about the fuel pump is enough evidence in itself.
Not trying to start anything but you can do whatever you want. As for me, I'll do everything I can to protect my toys.
If you ever want to see some examples of old gas or gummed up/corroded carbs let me know or stop by my shop.