Best Trap Size/Type for Various Furbearers

[Rustyaxecamp]

If possible, could some of you more "experienced" trappers list your picks for trap type and size (brands if possible) you use/reccomend.

I would appreciate info on:

Muskrat
Beaver
Otter
Mink
Weasel
Coon
Fox
Coyote

Thanks in advance.

[FREEPOP]

If possible, could some of you more "experienced" trappers list your picks for trap type and size (brands if possible) you use/reccomend.

I would appreciate info on:

Muskrat
Beaver
Otter
Mink
Weasel
Coon
Fox
Coyote

Thanks in advance.


Mink Muskrat - #1 - #1 1/2 coils or lsprings #110 to #160 body grips
Weasel - same as above and victor rat trap

Coon same as above to a #2 cs or ls, up to a #220 body grip

Fox - 1 1/2 cs or ls up to a #2

Otter - #2 or #4 leg hold or #220 or #330 body

Beaver - #4 or #5 leg hold #220 or #330 body

Yote - #2 to #4 cs or ls

Disclaimer, not really a seasoned trapper, but I've read a butt load and studied hard.

Try this site, it has suggestions

http://www.traps4kids.com/Trap-Sizes.html

[Rustyaxecamp]

I have seen the traps4kids lists, but it still leaves it pretty broad for most species.

Thanks for the list. Keep em coming guys.

[FREEPOP]

I have some #1 cs dukes that I have no doubt will hold coon very well.

Last year I had a #2 ls Victor that did very good for muskrat, the springs were weak, it was a garage sale trap.

If you stay in the middle of the road on the traps for kids list you will do good IMO. You can also get traps for multi use. I got some #4 cs that'll see time going for beaver and I will use in the winter for yotes (to come up thru snow). The fox I caught in the #2 cs last year held good with no foot damage. The #160 can take muskrat, mink and coon.

One thing I can tell you from experience, learn how to freeze proof your sets or the yotes will dance on them once they're frooze in.

[Liv4Trappin]

- Fox and Coyote: #2 Bridger coilspring w/offset jaws, jaw lamination, 4-coiled, extra swivel , 6" straight link chain, and double stake swivel.

- Coon: # 1.65 Bridger coilspring w/ #2 music wire springs, jaw lamination, 8" straight link chain w/ quick clasp for drowning wire hookup. #160 Bridger conibear for dry land trail sets.

-Mink and Muskrats: Same as Coon.

- Beaver/Otter: #330 Duke Conibears, #3 Bridger coilspring w/ jaw lamination, 4-coiled.

Mike

[wild bill]

I have some #1 cs dukes that I have no doubt will hold coon very well.

they will hold coon very well. i use them for land sets and have yet to have a chew out or a empty sprung trap. they just need a little more guideing with having a small pan.

for fox/yotes i use #2 or 1.75 coil springs. the 1.75 have #2 springs. all are base plated and laminated with mid chain swivels. some i have bubbled the jaw ends. a 1.5 cs will work good for fox if theres no chance of catching a yote. remember to set for the largest animal that you can expect to catch.

coon,rats and mink i use 1.5 coil springs for pockets and land sets. for the most part i use 160's for under water trapping.

[David G Duncan]

Rusty,

Here is my list:

Muskrat #1 Victor Longspring Stoploss and 110 conibears

Beaver 330 Victor Conibears and Victor #14 Jumps (Starting this year minus the teeth)

Otter Same as Beaver


Mink # 1.5 Victor Coilspring

Weasel # 1 Victor longspring

Coon # 1.5 Victor Coilsprings

Fox # 1.5 Victor Coilsprings

Coyote # 3 Victor Coilsprings

[Rustyaxecamp]

Thanks guys. Exactly what I was looking for.

The guys peddling traps at the MTA conv. will appreciate it too.:lol:

[FREEPOP]

Rusty, I was thinking about you while walking the dogs this morning. Those #2 coil springs are the just the ticket for possum and coon. It brings those possum in like there is some kind of magnetic force ;) :one_eye:

[Rustyaxecamp]

Great.... Gotta love grinners....

Just trying to figure out what spots need filled in my aresenal before this fall. Seems like I am doing ok with the start I have, but I wil likely pick up some 1.5 cs, 160, 220 and maybe a few 3 or 4 cs in Evart.

Which leads to my next question....

Are Dukes bad traps? For a guy like me who is getting started and doing it more for a hobby than to make $, should I just buy less traps but "better" ones. Bridgers look like they are a little better and aren't that much more $, good option?

The guys at FNT (who's opinion I trust), said they personally would not use Dukes as they would wear them out before they would wear out most other brands. They said there is nothing "wrong" with them, they are just not as "heavy duty" as some of the higher dollar traps.

As I am pretty early in assembling my collection, I would prefer to kind of stick with one brand if possible for each size/type, vs a mix match of various traps. Although I will not turn down a gift or loaner trap as several of the ones I have now were hand me downs or loaners to get me going and include Dukes, OV, B&L, Triumph, Hercules, Bridgers, etc..

Thoughts?

[FREEPOP]

Most everything I have are Dukes. Look me up and I can give you some ideas on I like to adjust them.

I never got to play with good steel yet, but will be looking, the weekend after next.

I know that with the dukes I have, I'll eventually have to base plate, as well as a few other mods, but the grinners haven't beat them up too much yet :chillin:

I have a dozen #2 Sleepy Creek coil springs, that I think are a little better than Duke IMO

[FREEPOP]

Rusty, check this post out on another forum for all you'll ever want to know about mods

http://kyboy.proboards89.com/index.cgi?board=sets&action=display&thread=1166723733

[Mister ED]

Rusty-

I'm kinda in the same boat as you on the traps. I started last year and have been adding to my arsenal. I think the trap brand coice is a personal thing (for the most part). I started off with some Montgomeries and Dukes, both 1.5 cs ... half dozen of each. Big diff in the two traps .... big difference in the price.

Building my arsenal, I went with Montgomeries ... only problem, they have not been made in over 20 years. So, I end up buying used ones and they usually run $6-$7 a trap, add a new pair of springs $1. So I end up at about $7.50 per trap ($90/dz) for a used trap with new springs. I also found some NOS Montgomeries for $100/dozen ($8.33/trap). The 1.5 Montana special is a duplicate of the 1.5 Montgomery and runs $100/dz. There are other 'higher end', 'Cadillac' new traps out there as well ... I just wanted uniformity, that is why I stayed with Montgomeries.

Duke 1.5s can be bought $59/dz ($4.92/trap) for a new trap. Almost 1/2 as much as my Montgomeries!!! But, overall, I think the 20+ year old Mongomery 1.5 cs will outlast a new Duke 1.5 cs.

Both will catch coons/mink/rats .... so it is a personal choice.

Body grips ... I have mostly Dukes on my new traps (hard to tell what brand my used ones are). Others with more experience may disagree, but with one exception, I do not see an issue with Duke body grips. That exception is the NEW Duke 330. Sometime in the not too distant past, Duke redesigned their 330 and it now only measures 10"x8" ... IMHO, not good if the beavers are the least bit conni shy. So, when I buy more 330's ... I will spend twice as much and get a real 330, not a 280x330 cross (I think Duke should rename these a 305, as they are not a 330).

Big beaver iron ... here is my take. The #5 Duke dls, is a nice trap, already has 'Paws-I-Trip' pan installed, center swivled,etc. I have a few Bridger #5 dls ... they are nice, but I put on 'Paws-I-Trip' pan and center swivled. For about the same $ as either of these, you can buy an MB-750. These are a SWEET trap! Compact (for a 7.5" trap) 4-coiled, no dog or loose jaw to worry about, easier to tote around than a comparable dls. IMHO, it is the beaver trap to buy. That being said ... I have a half dz #5 Bridgers, and only one MB750.:sad:

Anyway, that's my long winded opinion and the way I have been approaching things.

Ed

[Northcountry]

If possible, could some of you more "experienced" trappers list your picks for trap type and size (brands if possible) you use/reccomend.

I would appreciate info on:

Muskrat
Beaver
Otter
Mink
Weasel
Coon
Fox
Coyote

Thanks in advance.

Heres my preferences...

Coyote and fox: Duke #2 CS, 4-coiled, short-chained, night-latched.
Mink and rats: BMI 110, 160, Victor 1-1/2 LS
Beaver and otter: Belisle 330, MB-750
Coon: I dont target them much but 160's and #2 CS have worked great.

[Rustyaxecamp]

Rusty, check this post out on another forum for all you'll ever want to know about mods

http://kyboy.proboards89.com/index.cgi?board=sets&action=display&thread=1166723733

Good info there. Thanks.

[BlackCoyote]

yotes I use mostly #3 montanas...expensive but i love them, there fully tricked out. Mostly cable stakes with quick clasps.

Fox, I use 1.75 again fully tricked out.
Rats, 1-1/2 LS, 110s,and I started using some 120's and 160's with one spring removed.
Mink is same as the rats.
Beaver 330's & MB 750s
Coon buckets a I use 160's and a few 220's.
Coon mostly 1.75's same as my fox traps.

I try to buy mostly "Made in the USA" traps if I can but that's just me in general. I use alot of Sleepy Creek traps.

I did switch up and run some Victor soft catch and have gained some extra ground i could never trap on before.

Here's a pic of some Bridger #2's i added pads to for a friend, notice in the pick he didn't bend the spring pins down, and was using stock chain, I added a another swivel and shortened the chain for him and added double stake plates. I also ground down the remaining bolt and locktighted the nuts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v445/Drewsifer/IM000801.jpg

[Beaverhunter2]

I'll jump in on this one.

Muskrats: #1 stoploss, 6x6 colony traps, 110s, and single spring 160s. Any manufacturers.

Coon: 1 1/2 coil Double jaw, #11s and #11 double jaw (lots of Duke 1 1/2Cs some Victors; Duke, Sleepy, and Bridger #11s), 160s (I have Duke, Victor, and Belisle plus a bunch I made.)

Predators MB-650 laminated (in the woods), #2 Monty RJ and Duke 1.75 OS (in the suburbs) All baseplated, centerswivelled, shock springs, etc.

Beaver: MB-750, Duke #5 DL, CDR 7.5, Megabears, 330s (Mostly BMI with some Dukes.)

Otter: MB-750, 280s, 330s

As far as manufacturers, some traps are tougher or nicer than others. You need to look at each species and determine what mods or repairs you can/will do. If you can weld baseplates, lams, etc.- you can get "raw material." (i.e. traps you can use as a base to turn into something special). On the other hand, if you need to go pretty well stock, buy a little bit better stuff.

However, for beaver (for example) it's hard to take a marginal trap and turn it into something as good as the best. A #4DL will never be an MB-750 or a CDR- no matter how much you modify it.

For 'coons, one 1 1/2 coil is pretty close to another. A coon is not going to trash your trap like a coyote or otter can. The thing that's going to give out on cheaper 1 1/2 coils are the springs. In a couple seasons, they will need to be changed. When they start getting soft, replace the old 1 1/2 springs with #2 music wire and you've be pretty much set for the life of the trap (and maybe the trapper). Springs are less than $1.50 a pair. IMO double jaws are worth the money (read the Raccoon BMP). The first 'coon you don't lose will pay for them. Also, when you put the #2 springs on them, throw on a 3/16" round outside lamination. A 1 1/2 coil laminated DJ with #2 springs is pretty close to the ultimate 'coon killer. On the flip side, the #11 and #11DJs are pretty deadly right out of the box and will stay that way. Add an extra swivel or two and swivel them from the baseplate and your done. BTW- I do that with 1 1/2s, too.

If you're using your 1 1/2s for fox with the occasional coyote, we've got a whole different problem. I'd rather catch a beaver or otter in a 1 1/2 coil (I have done both) than a coyote. At least I have a chance to drown the beaver and the otter. Happily, I've never had a coyote test a 1 1/2 coil. I did have one disassemble one of the old #2 square jaw Victors for me, however. In this case, I would start with Montanas, and then get into baseplates, lams, machine chain, crunch-proof swivels, and possibly Taos lightning springs. (Or use 1.75 Off-sets and start the same mod process.

One last thing on 'coon traps for the guys just starting out that are low on $. If you have some 1 1/2 longsprings that are in good shape, drill a hole in the frame below the tips of the jaws and move the rivet and chain so they swivel from the end opposite the spring. At this point you'll have a fairly decent 'coon trap. If you can- weld some 3/16" rod (you can use 16d or 20d nails with the heads cut off) to make double jaws and you'll be in really good shape. With the 'coon pulling toward the spring, they are a lot less likely to power out. These will get you through until you get a fur check and can buy some new traps. Then you can put these 1 1/2Ls in your muskrat traps and use them where you're setting for 'rats, but a 'coon is a possibility.

There's my take on it.

John

[David G Duncan]

John,

It is easy to see that you have a lot of trapping experience under you belt, based on your outstanding post above on proper trap size.

Thank you for sharing your experience with us.

Back in the late 1970's, when I ran some long fox lines using 1.5 coilsprings, because the coyotes were few and far between in northern lower; I did catch and hold several coyotes in 1.5 coilsprings. And like you I have also caught numerous beaver and otter in 1.5 coilsprings. It was clear to see that shape of the jaws (rounded rather than square) gave these little traps a tremendous advantage in the hold power department. My old Square Jawed #2 Victor Fox Traps would never hold up to the punishment that a coyote could dish out.

All my 1.5 Victor Coilsprings were modified for a center of frame chain attachment with a short chain and an extra swivel. Double stake swivels were used on all my land sets.

Now my trap of choice for coyotes is a #3 Victor regular jawed coilspring.

[griffondog]

There is a lot of good info here on traps but for the first time trapper who is just getting started you need to get your feet wet first. Your out to catch a few animals and have some fun. Not compete with a guy who has been doing this for 30 years. Your better off learning the proper locations and studying the animals than hanging out in the garage doing trap mods!

All new traps you buy today will hold the target animals It's designed for with minimal mods done by you. It wasn't that way not to many years ago.

For rats all you need to get started is some 110 conis and if you want to use foot holds use stoploss traps.

For coons a good 11/2 coil with some extra swivels will get you started. I tell most new trappers to wait a few years on using 160s and 220s till you have a idea on what your doing. Our image is very important to us now.

Mink your 110 conis and 11/2 coils will be a good start for you.

Beaver and otter I would start off using just 330s and waiting a couple years to use foothold traps. Most guys have a hard time catching beaver and holding them with footholds. No use buying a bunch of 30 dollar traps your not going to use.

Now for yotes and fox where everybody has a different opinion. Most new trappers are just going to catch a few animals starting off so your equipment isn't going to get worked over like a guy who gets 50 yotes a year. So any good 13/4 size or 2 coilspring trap will hold a coyote. You don't need to 4 coil, baseplate, laminate to start off. The springs on a new trap are plenty strong enough to hold any coyote your going to catch. If you want to trick out your traps go right ahead but you don't have to. Add some swivels, bend you spring pins down and bend your jaw tips up and your ready. Since we catch more coyotes than fox now I don't set any 11/2s for fox anymore.

Griff

[David G Duncan]

Thanks Griffondog for posting such a well thought out and written response to this thread on proper trap sizes!

I know it will be a great help to all the begining trappers on the forum.