Homemade Lighted Nocks

[kerby1]

Came across this on You Tube. Guy that makes his own lighted nocks. Seems pretty easy, not sure if it is worth it in the long run, versus, just buying them, but interesting too watch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk&search=archery (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMqLT-4ezzk&search=archery)

[Yarcher]

I made a couple. Seemed pretty easy, and they work well in target practice. Now to test them out in the field...;)

[Camo Boy]

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Lumanoc.jpg

Made alot of them and they fly great with broadheads, I actually think they are brighter than the one you can buy IMO.

[Drop Tine]

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Lumanoc.jpg

Made alot of them and they fly great with broadheads, I actually think they are brighter than the one you can buy IMO.

And much cheaper. The luminocks sell for about $10 each. These can be made for less than $2, and about 30 minutes of your time.

[erodrig4]

here is a short video clip of one of the ones i made, this one is on one of my cousins arrows.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g262/erodrig24/th_lumenok.jpg (http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g262/erodrig24/?action=view&current=lumenok.flv)

[Gilbey]

For those of you that did make them, was this the same as the video providede in the link?

Would this work with the Full Metal Jackets in principal? I would assume so........

ero - I think the one that you shot is brighter than the lumenok.

And quite frankly, I'm not wasting my money on more of the lumenok's, i had a failure rate last year of 2 out of 3. So...cost was actually 30$ per arrow. I contacted Burt Coyote on it, and they told me that I did it wrong when i inserted them. I told them that I tested them and they worked fine once each. They never responded to that last email. :rant: I also told them I wasn't looking for freebies or anything, but I just wanted to give them an FYI of some of their products not working.

Hate that when I get off track..............anyways, definately looking at building my own, and if this is the way that is proven in the above video, that's what they're going to be.

[Yarcher]

I made mine per the video, and they have worked great in practice. I had luminocks go out after not getting a pass through and the deer running through the woods. These homemade ones do not turn off so easily, and I am hoping that they will not turn off once they hit the deer. If you want to purchse lighted nocks that stay on after they are shot, check out archer's flame nocks. I believe you have to pull them out and flip a switch after they are shot.

[Camo Boy]

I posted this awhile ago, this is how I did it. Have fun

#6 (http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1466385&postcount=6) http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/images/buttons/report.gif (http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/report.php?p=1466385)
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/images/statusicon/post_old.gif 01-18-2007, 11:26 AM
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Guide

Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Milan, MI.
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http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif
What you need will be the Thill LED, 2 Nocks, Super Glue, and I use 2 or 3 staples, and a little candle, needle nose pliars, dremmel tool with cut off wheel.

Take one of the nocks and cut off the insert part that goes into your arrow. Cut it right below where the nock makes the transition from insert to nock. Some pruning shears work great to cut the nocks straight, otherwise use a dremmel with a cut off wheel. Set this aside for now.

Take the staples and bend one side so you have a "L" shape staple. Light your little candle, I use those little candles my fiance puts under Potpouri pots.

Take your other nock (I like to use transparent ones) and insert the Thill LED into the Nock. Push it up in there as far as you can get it. It'll turn on and that's fine, leave it on and use the needle nose pliars to hold the staple over the candle. You want to heat up the long side of the "L" til it's white hot.

Now what you want to do is insert the staple throught the nock and into the red COLLAR on the LED. NOT THE LED ITSELF! Take it in as if you are pushing through the side of the nock on the radius and just enough to catch the collar on the led. I put at least 2 or 3 of the staples in to hold the collar. This is what allows the nock to be turned off.

Now what you do is take the dremmel with the cut off wheel and cut the staples off of the nock and sand them down to the plastic so it doesn't damage the inside of the shafts. While you're sanding the staples sand off any little raised areas on the insert of the nock with the LED in it. This way the nock will slide easily in and out of the shaft.

Now remember that cut nock, what you want to do is sand a little, NOT much on those raised spots on this. DON'T sand them completely off. Take a drop or 2 of super glue and drop them in the inside of the cut insert. Put this on a piece of cardboard and be sure you're on a flat surface.

Now take the nock with the LED in it. You want to put the bottom battery part in to the cut nock. I always put the battery into the factory side of the cut nock and not the side where you cut it in half. It fits better in the factory side. Be sure you push it in where you have an even spacing all around the battery base so it goes in your shaft straight.

Let this dry over night! I have a couple of arrows that I was in a hurry with and found this out the hard way!

Now you want to insert this in your arrow. If your arrows are fletched then you want to align the nock to what ever way your cock vane is setting to avoid fletching contact on your rest.

REMEMBER: You don't want to twist this nock.

Now push the nock in completely and it will be on. What you do is once it's completely seated, simply pull straight back on it about 1/8" and it should turn off. Usually I just use my teeth and gently pull the nock and feel the "Click".

Take it out and shoot to test. Keep in mind not to twist the LED's since it will ruin them. It may take a couple to perfect but once you've got it, it'll be simple and you'll be making them with ease. Just remember, super glue on the bottom of the battery and staples in the COLLAR!

Hope this helps.
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/Lighted_Nock_Pin.JPG
__________________

[sbooy42]

I make them. I don't glue the nock to the light though. I use FOBs and that way the light stays in the arrow when the nock and FOB pop off on a pass through. Would have to guess this is easier with regular fletch too. You don't take the chance of gluing the tip of the light. And you can also use remove the light when you want with out needing extra nocks.

Sorry but for some reason posting picture here is a pain for me so here is a link if anyone is interested....

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=514812

[Drop Tine]

I make them. I don't glue the nock to the light though. I use FOBs and that way the light stays in the arrow when the nock and FOB pop off on a pass through. Would have to guess this is easier with regular fletch too. You don't take the chance of gluing the tip of the light. And you can also use remove the light when you want with out needing extra nocks.

Sorry but for some reason posting picture here is a pain for me so here is a link if anyone is interested....

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=514812

Excuse my ignorance - what is an "FOB"?

[michhank]

And much cheaper. The luminocks sell for about $10 each. These can be made for less than $2, and about 30 minutes of your time.

Where can you get the lights for less than $2.00? The cheapest I found them is about $3.50.
Hank

[NSD]

Excuse my ignorance - what is an "FOB"?

:yeahthat:


I made some and they work great!

[MIBIGHNTR]

FOB info....

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193129

http://www.starrflight.com/

Mark

[efriesner]

Thanks for all of the great info... I can't wait to make some for myself.

[Drop Tine]

Where can you get the lights for less than $2.00? The cheapest I found them is about $3.50.
Hank


Sorry for the late reply, but I got them at Wal-Mart for $1.79. However, afetr reading your post and checking on-line, I went back to the store and found out why I got them so cheap. I got them off of the clearance rack. I think whomever stocked them made a mistake thoguh, becuase there are no more on the clearance rack, but in the regular aisle and they are priced now at over $3. Looks like maybe I just lucked out.

[sbooy42]

Excuse my ignorance - what is an "FOB"?

Yep what MIBIGHNTR (http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/member.php?u=3936) posted

Thanks MIBIGHNTR

[michhank]

Sorry for the late reply, but I got them at Wal-Mart for $1.79. However, afetr reading your post and checking on-line, I went back to the store and found out why I got them so cheap. I got them off of the clearance rack. I think whomever stocked them made a mistake thoguh, becuase there are no more on the clearance rack, but in the regular aisle and they are priced now at over $3. Looks like maybe I just lucked out.



Thanks for the info. I guess it happens you get lucky sometimes.
Hank

[michigandeerslayer]

what do you call the light it self, so if go looking for it I know what im looking for

[MIBIGHNTR]

what do you call the light it self, so if go looking for it I know what im looking for


Thill Bobber Lights

They are right with the bobbers and such in the fishing department. Gander has red, green, and yellow ones but they were a $1 more each than what I found at Walmart. The Walmart I checked only has red ones.

Mark

[sbooy42]

Thill Bobber Lights

They are right with the bobbers and such in the fishing department. Gander has red, green, and yellow ones but they were a $1 more each than what I found at Walmart. The Walmart I checked only has red ones.

Mark

Make sure its the push/pull type

[erodrig4]

Make sure its the push/pull type

yeah, i went to wal-mart a few months ago to get some lights, grabbed the last 3 packs, didn't even look at them, got home and seen they were the twist on type...took em back, then went to gander mountain, and all they had were the twist on types as well :dizzy:


Gander has red, green, and yellow ones


has anyone tried making them with green or yellow?


what do you call the light it self, so if go looking for it I know what im looking for

Thill bobber lights or thill replacement batteries

look like this
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g262/erodrig24/untitled-5.jpg

[WALLEYEvision]

Cool idea, thanks for the link!