Temporary Power Pole

[tunitime27]

Any one of you land owners wanting to sell or are getting rid of a temporary power pole? I need one and the cost to have one installed is a bit pricey. My property is in lake county but I could pick it up almost anywhere. Maybe someone knows of a good electrician that won't rip me off too.
Any help is great. :help:
Thanks

[Don J]

I bought all materials from local hardware store and 6x6 pole from lumber yard. assembled and installed pole myself for around $250, local electrical contractor wanted $450.

[8nchuck]

I made mine.


Call the power company 1st, they will give you a drawing to guide you. But it may not be CODE so check.

Does it have to be inspected befor the power company hooks it up ?

I don't see any inspectors listed for Lake County so you may not need one.

stay within 10 ' of transformer box/ pole or they( power company) will charge you big bucks. You can run your own UF cable later (cheaper) if you need to go a distance from transformer to something.

The meter box was free (consumers power). I went to Lowes and got a outdoor breaker box for two breakers-$50.00.

TWO 1/2" ground rods (8') with solid brass clamps (NOT SPILT TYPE-NOT CODE).

Put a waterproof GFI outlet box with A BUBBLE COVER (Code) on it.

I am in Montmorency County and had to have it inspected so I know the codes that got me re-inspected ($20.00 extra).

Bound the neutral to the breaker box
two ground rods 8' apart with solid clamps
#6 wire Meter box to breaker box- thru short nipple (Clamps on meter box will not clamp on a #8 wire)
use bubble cover - not flip cover on gfi !!!!

Total cost to build it was about 150 with treated wood.

I use two 4X4 with a treated plywood back 2' X 3' and a small roof over it.

750 to consumers
70 to inspector

[jim84]

start with power provider, I did a under ground conversion acouple years ago it sure help starting with them. they came out and gave me some ideas than we came up with a plan with their help. I would be going to your building inspector they will know who the elect. guy is. gl.

[The Nailer]

I made mine.


Call the power company 1st, they will give you a drawing to guide you. But it may not be CODE so check.


I agree with the above statement, PIE&G the power company in the NE corner (Presque Isle County) had a diagram of exactly what they expected and once installed it had to be inspected. I think I had less than $200.00 invested in temporary weatherproof outside Panel (which had a 220 plug and four GFCI outlets), lumber and plastic conduit.

[tunitime27]

ok. I get the breakerbox, grounding rods, meter box(which is free from great lakes energy. What about the stand off pole and the top of the standoff? I know they make the wheather proof coupling but do I need to run the wires to the top of the pole/conduit?

I'll try and get a picture from the energy company but if any of you have one that would help a ton. By the way, it does need to be inspected and that is $50.00.:lol:

[8nchuck]

I will try a draw a picture for you and post it. You will need 2 - 4x4's, a piece of treated plywood 2'x4', 2'x3' or 4'x4' . and some 2x6 boards and rolled roofing.

I put the meter box next to the breaker box on the board and put a 1" piece of conduit between the two. I used silicon on mine for added protection but it is not needed. Screw the board to the two 4x4's,

Use #6 wire from the meter box, read the sticker and see what the minimum dia wire the clamps will hold, mine was #6 I had 8 and had to change it, to the breaker box ( get a weather proof one).

Make sure you bond the netrual in the breaker box to the box case. They make a connector or you can use wire and connect one end to the bar and the other to the box case.

Put a outlet box below the breaker box and connect it with 1/2 conduit. Use a GFI plug with a bubble cover and you should be good.

Drive the two ground rods down 8' apart and use copper ground wire & brass acorn clamps. They are one piece and have a bolt that pushes on the rod. DO NOT GET THE 2 piece WATER PIPE CLAMPS.

I used a two breaker but only hooked one( one knocked out) up for the inspection, I ran a 180' UF wire #12 to my trailer later and use the second one later( not code).

I also used 2x6's to run along the sides of the plywood, angled the tops and nailed a 2x6 across the top with some rooled roofing to give the whole thing a roof.

The power company will supply the conduit/wire to the meter box from the transformer.

I do not garintee this to pass inspection, but mine did.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b149/8nchuck/powerbox.jpg

[tunitime27]

THanks for the picture.
I will get the codes and go from there.
thanks again,

[sullyxlh]

By the way, it does need to be inspected and that is $50.00.:lol:
yep,and a re-inspection fee will be about the same if ya don't get it right the first time ;)

I will try a draw a picture for you and post it. You will need 2 - 4x4's, a piece of treated plywood 2'x4', 2'x3' or 4'x4' . and some 2x6 boards and rolled roofing.

I put the meter box next to the breaker box on the board and put a 1" piece of conduit between the two. I used silicon on mine for added protection but it is not needed. Screw the board to the two 4x4's,

Use #6 wire from the meter box, read the sticker and see what the minimum dia wire the clamps will hold, mine was #6 I had 8 and had to change it, to the breaker box ( get a weather proof one).

Make sure you bond the netrual in the breaker box to the box case. They make a connector or you can use wire and connect one end to the bar and the other to the box case.

Put a outlet box below the breaker box and connect it with 1/2 conduit. Use a GFI plug with a bubble cover and you should be good.

Drive the two ground rods down 8' apart and use copper ground wire & brass acorn clamps. They are one piece and have a bolt that pushes on the rod. DO NOT GET THE 2 piece WATER PIPE CLAMPS.

I used a two breaker but only hooked one( one knocked out) up for the inspection, I ran a 180' UF wire #12 to my trailer later and use the second one later( not code).

I also used 2x6's to run along the sides of the plywood, angled the tops and nailed a 2x6 across the top with some rooled roofing to give the whole thing a roof.

The power company will supply the conduit/wire to the meter box from the transformer.

I do not garintee this to pass inspection, but mine did.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b149/8nchuck/powerbox.jpg

Just to add...
that is for an underground power source,assuming that's what you need,an overhead will require an overhead mtr can w/se cable coming out the top,secured to a pole that the power company will usually supply.

Use pcv btwn the mtr can & panel,you'll eliminate the added cost of the bonding issues
use 5/8" ground rods not 1/2,not allowed
And I don't think you can grd the mtr can,the grounding conductor needs to come from the sub-panel,check with your local authority

[Jumpshootin']

And I don't think you can grd the mtr can,the grounding conductor needs to come from the sub-panel,check with your local authority
Correct

[tunitime27]

Do any of you electricians know what box/load center I need to buy for a 100 amp service?
I have access to grainger, allen bradley, and a host of other supply houses. I am a machine tool electrician but not to keen on the whole outside stuff.:help:

[8nchuck]

Yep, ground to the service box not the meter box. My bad.

Do you want 100 amp temp service? Do you need 100 amp? I would go to lowes/home depot/meanards and look at the weather proof boxes they have there first. You will need bigger wire than the #6 I told you.

Also if you go that big ,100 amp ,make sure your conduit from the box the the service panel is big enough to handel the size and number of conductors you are using

[MichiganHunter1971]

hey tunitime email me and I will tell you what to do, once again there are some people out there that think they are electricians,lol Well i am a master licensed electrician. If you want the right way email me. I do not want to cause conflicts here in the message room, the one helping you out the most is only about 1/2 right.

[sullyxlh]

once again there are some people out there that think they are electricians,lol Well i am a master licensed electrician. If you want the right way email me. I do not want to cause conflicts here in the message room, the one helping you out the most is only about 1/2 right.
Go ahead,lay it on the table and don't be shy
There's always time for code discussions on temp pwr installs

[8nchuck]

Just trying to help the fella out. I made mine and it passed. The inspector was very helpful and I had to change some things.

If there is something way off let us know so we can all learn, or tell us that it is way over our heads. I know that what will work and what is code is two different things.

One thing that I did notice is that I said #6 wire to the breaker box. THAT HAS TO BE SIZED TO THE SERVICE AMPS YOU WANT.

Two ground rods was something I did not know, lucky I had an extra one.

[Tecumseh]

Had some kids construct a dirt bike track on a friends property and they installed a utility light pole and ran power to it so they could tear up the property at night. We took it down and let it lay. If you want a creosote treated wood utility pole I am sure you could have it. It is located in Shelby. PM me if you are interested.

[CL-Lewiston]

Seems like all inspectors have their own idea of ground rods. I needed a 10' piece of 1/2' pipe. The 8' copper rod was not sufficient nor the 65' well pipe.