The "T" set. For beavers

[mhodnettjr]

Hey everyone,

Thought that I would share this set with you all. One of the sets that I like to use is called the T set. I had an ole timer show me this and it really does work well. When set properly it will keep taking beavers again and again. I use this both in open water and under ice.

The Idea is to take sticks and put them in the water to create a T coming out of the dam. This is most easily done before the ice comes but can be done any time. Most (all I have ever seen) dams have a run were the animals rutinely check and repair the damn. I like to make the T extend at least a couple feet past that then the "top" of the T shoule be 8 feet or so. (no real measurement).

Maybe the picture can show this better than I can explain.

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/3043/T-set.JPG

The Idea is the beaver always patrols the dam, to make sure its working properly. The beaver runs into this wall of sticks, tries to go around and meets another wall(top of T) then goes through the opening where you have a trap waiting.

Lots of Natural spots along dams make great blind sets with out forcing an animal like the T does, but once you build the T it will stay season after season and produce animals.

Good luck

[SNAREMAN]

thanx for the info:) i'll try to use it by the end of the season

[David G Duncan]

Mike,

Great Set!

In my early days trapping beaver, when I had a lot of energy to burn, I would use the dam as the back of pen made from stick for an under ice set. An open just large enough for a 330 was left on the deep water side.

Then I would push a fresh aspen branch out under the ice and anchor the butt inside the pen. It was a very effect set, but a lot of work. Your set is a lolt easier, I am thinking.

Another Alphbet beaver set is one I call the "W" set. It is similar to your "T" set but made in a stream. I have had good luck with this set catching both beaver and otter.

I would leaving opens for two 330's and did not construct a complete "W". but only \ / \ . This way I had a funnel facing both up and down stream.

[multibeard]

That ole timer had to learn that set when we used to have to set no closer than 10 foot from a dam. 50 foot from a lodge or den was the rule at the time. To this day I stay away from the lodge or den so that I do not spook the beaver.

I used the same idea but a straight out fence for 15 foot with a hole at 10 foot+ to slip a ladder holding a 330 down in the opening right on the bottom. Some of the traps would be in 6 foot of water. One set like this took 4 beaver one winter.

The ladder was built like a straight ladder with the 330 springs on the bottom rung, rung two was left out. The 3rd rung was a thinner piece that fit thru the very top of the jaws to stabilize the trap. Then as many rungs as were needed for the depth. Add to that a piece of lamp wire set up around he jaws to use to test to tell if the trap was sprung and I was good to go. I never had to chop out my ladder to see if the trap was sprung.

[ottertrapper]

I remember the days when you couldn't trap on beaver walls and within 50 feet of a beaver dam. Boy I feel old now. Ah those were the days. My dad when he first started out you were allowed 8 beaver per season and there was only a spring season back then. OT

[Mister ED]

Hmmmm .... I guess a couple of questions are in order.

Mike - I presume you are setting the trap on bottom like Multi is talking?

Multi - Tell us (uneducated ones) a little more about this ladder. Made of what ... limbs I presume?

I've had no luck with 330's. I am thinking the ponds I have been working have some educated beavers (all on Fed lands). What are you using in the opening (above the trap) to keep the beaver from going above the trap? Multi, If I am understanding your ladder correctly ... the upper rungs would do that, correct?

I pulled my under ice sets on a pond last week (before the storm) and hopefully I can get back into the creek locations on Friday.

[multibeard]

I tied to get a picture into my gallery but forgot how and can not find my notes on how to do it. I don't think I have done it since last turkey season. Senility comes with age. Will try again tomorrow.

Any how I built them out of DEAD saplings that I usually found in beaver ponds. 1 1/2" or so for the sides and maybe a little smaller for the rungs. I some times put an angular brace on the side opposite side from the rungs to stabilize the thing.

When I was using them a lot I built them at home and carried them on the top of my scout with the 330's set and wired so they couldn't spring.

[mhodnettjr]

The bottom is a great place for the trap. I have also caught them JUST under the ice in the winter.

Mike

[Mister ED]

Sounds like you guys were using these variations with under ice sets. Would they work equally well in open water? If I can get back to a couple spots on the one creek I have with a couple dams, I am expecting open water (pretty good current). I'd really like to put the conni's to work, because with the coming melt, I suspect that I'm going to have problems with fluctuating water depth for my foot holds.

[David G Duncan]

Ed,

A good 330 set for either beaver or otter is just below the crossover on the dam. A dive under small log over top of the trap set on the bottom is very effective.

Make sure you wire or anchor your trap very solidly, because a large beaver or otter in some cases will not be killed as quickly as you would like, especially if you get a catch too far back.

Spend some time checking out the bottom of the stream for pinch points where the beaver are traveling along the bottom. These are very good locations for a 330, especially if the bottom is all shined up due to the beaver digging into the bottom with their hind feet as they swim along the bottom!

Good Luck!