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salmon_slayer06
01-16-2007, 08:42 PM
I have a set of rods that I want to beef up with new stainless steel guides for wire line fishing next summer. My question is, how do I go about taking the old guides off so I can put on the new ones? Like most rods, these guides are wrapped than a resin of some kind is over top the thread. Is there a method for removing the old resin and thread so I don't damage the rod? Thanks in Advance. -Jason




Riverkeeper
01-17-2007, 01:00 AM
Cut the thread off by running a razor along the guide foot. You'll peel almost all of the epoxy off in the process. The razor can carefully remove some more of the epoxy, or use acetone, if you need that clean of detail.

Westlakedrive
01-17-2007, 01:38 AM
I am going to assume you have guides picked out but dont assume that because they are stainless steel they will hold up to braided line. What I am saying is make sure you have the right guides if you are going to the trouble.
I use a razor blade. You could use acetone I usually use a bit of sand paper after the razor blade. Only go parellel to the blank because if you nick it its bad. :lol: I would only use a light grit paper obviously and also would be dictated by if you were putting the guides in the same place and what type of blank it was fiberglass or graphite.

salmon_slayer06
01-17-2007, 06:16 AM
Well, the next best guides are almost 12 bucks a peice and I would need 20 of them. They are made for wire, they are not roller guides either. The stainless steel are good, alot cheaper too. They are a couple bucks a peice. The guides on the Heartlands are just some cheapos and have lasted me a few seasons and are still going. Those are 30 dollar rods. Stainless steel is a good leadcore eye too. Oh, BTW, I found out that copper wire is meant for roller rods. The wire is too soft and the eyes on the rods will weaken the line.

MSUICEMAN
01-17-2007, 07:29 AM
i cut along the guide foot, get as much off as you can from that (sometimes you can unzip em if you get the end of the thread). Then for what remains gently (don't overdue it) heat it up with a hairdryer and use your fingernails to get the rest off (for most epoxies this works, for polyurethanes and some of the others it won't but its a good way of getting it off which possibly damaging the blank). acetone is a last resort for me, as it can also take off the finish of the rod.

Westlakedrive
01-17-2007, 08:39 AM
If you do use stainless steel guides make sure they are plated with something like Titanium Nitrate or Titanium Carbide. The plated diamond polished zirconium only run 2-9 bucks depending on size.
Thats one thing about the Heartland or off shoot rods. Most people, including myself, did not realize that the blank is really only half the cost of a quality and LONG LASTING rod.

CL-Lewiston
01-17-2007, 10:54 AM
Check out the fuji guidesand Netcfaft website. They sell many differentbstyles/quality. MOST are not $12-maybe for the 30 mm but smaller for 3-5$.

Im rewinding a old rod now. It is very interesting, frustrating and rewarding.

CL-Lewiston
01-17-2007, 11:00 AM
If you want to do some research go to your library and get a copy of "the new advanced cuctom rod building-by Dale P Clemens.

There are several pages devoted to guide selection.

Netcraft is only about 20 mi S of Cabelas and they keeps a good selection of all kinds of stuff. Take big $$-you will need it.

salmon_slayer06
01-17-2007, 12:06 PM
I'm rewrapping some RP2's actually. I'm making a fireline rod, into a wire rod. I won't use rollers. I don't know how guys deal with them things. They are meant for thick mono like what they use in the ocean. Not a line thats the thickness of 10 pound test mono.

Fletch09
01-17-2007, 01:27 PM
I'm rewrapping some RP2's actually. I'm making a fireline rod, into a wire rod. I won't use rollers. I don't know how guys deal with them things. They are meant for thick mono like what they use in the ocean. Not a line thats the thickness of 10 pound test mono.

The Aftco rollers put on RP2 wire rods can be used with heavier mono but they work extremely well for wire. Unlike other roller rods, RP2 uses enough rollers so the fish/dipsey weight is properly distributed on the blank.

However, with any roller guide wire rod IMO you MUST use a swivel top on your end roller (Aftco calls their swivel tops SHD) or the wire will saw into the edge of your roller tip and cause you problems. RP2 now offers a model with an SHD tip.

salmon_slayer06
01-17-2007, 02:45 PM
I seen those swivel tips deals. I haven't tried them, but I know they will work much better than the permanent fixed position tips. I guess those will save the line from getting pinched in the roller. I'm still not resorting to them.

http://shop.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/Carmet

these tips are the ones I want, but they cost too much.

http://shop.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/Wire-Frame/XBG-Boat-Guides

These are probably what I'm going to get. I fugure I need 10 per rod, and theres 2 rods I'm doing. So that will be around 2 bucks per eye.... so roughly 50 bucks for the eyes. I'm happy to get 3 seasons out of them.

Westlakedrive
01-17-2007, 11:34 PM
I would think you should get three years out of them. I wonder how long silicon carbide or plated zirconium would last in comparison. I have no idea.

Good luck.

Westlakedrive
01-20-2007, 01:13 AM
Here is some good info I found to post in another thread may be applicable here.

Hardloy (Fuji) Gray 1200-1400 Vickers Hardness Scale
Aluminum Oxide Dk. Brown 1200-1400 Vickers
Hialoy (Pac Bay) Dk. Brown 1200-1400 Vickers
TiCH Gray
TiGold Gold 2500-3000 Vickers Titianium Nitrate Coated
Alconite (fuji) Black (Deep crystal sparkle) < C.Hall 1700 Vickers
SIC Dk. Gray (super high mirror polish) <C. Hall
SIC Fuji, Pac Bay 2200-2400 Vickers

Stainless Steel 200 Vickers
Chrome 800-100 Vickers
Zirconia (American) 1400-1800 Vickers
Nanolite (American) 1800 Vickers
Titianium Carbide Coated 1900-2400 Vickers
Titianium Nitrate Coated 2500-3000 Vickers

Never really wore out a guide before or grooved one.
Other factors to consider like the wear of the guide on the fishing line which would be inversely porportional to this info and in addition also related to the heat disposition.

salmon_slayer06
01-24-2007, 12:07 PM
Is stainless steel eyes good enough for wire? Somebody told me thats what I should use. I know theres lots of new eyes out now and they are made up of all different materials. What else besides rollers would work better than stainless? And still around 3-4 bucks a peice?