David G Duncan
11-05-2006, 06:04 AM
Steming from a post by "aquaticsanonymous" who requested a post on the basics of Raccoon Trapping, I offer the following:
First, raccoons are not in the least bit trap shy. Therefore, no special covering or camoflaging of the trap is necessary, as with canine trapping.
The biggest challenges you will have in trapping raccoons will be related to the way they aggressively fight a foothold trap, which can lead to excessive foot damage and failure of any poorly installed trap anchoring system.
By far the most humane and effective trap for harvesting raccoons is the 160 or 220 conibear trap. The use of baited chubbies or plastic buckets are extremely effective. But make sure you understand the regulations and restrictions related to where these traps can be used. Release of a non-target animal unhurted is not possible with type of trap, as compared to a foothold trap.
Proper Trap Size:
Water trapping is normally where a beginning trapper will start their trapping adventure.
The furbearers that they will go after are: Muskrats, Mink and Raccoons.
These furbearers all live in the same habitat. Rivers, lakes, streams and ponds will normally have a good populations of all three of these furbearers.
Therefore, setting traps for muskrats and mink will also result in the trapper catching raccoons, even if he is not targeting this furbearer. Which is not normally a problem, since the market value of raccoon pelts is normally fairly good in comparison to muskrats and mink.
The real problem comes due to the fact that a mature raccoon weighing from 12 to 20 pounds is a lot harder to keep restrained with a foothold trap, that was originally set to handle only a 1 to 3 pound muskrat or mink.
Muskrat and mink traps are normally size #1 or #1 1/2, which surprisingly is also a good sized trap for effectively holding even the largest raccoon by their paw.
In fact, a small foothold trap is much better than a large foothold trap, when it comes to raccoon trapping.
The exception is the # 1 1/2 longspring trap, which might be a good mink and muskrat trap, but it is a very poor raccoon trap, due to the fact that it captures the raccoon too high on their foot.
A raccoon caught in a #1 foothold trap will normally have the trap jaws across the pad of their foot, rather than higher up their foot. An across the pad catch, therefore does not put undue strain on the raccoons foot and they normally will not fight the trap unduly.
However, where raccoons and mink are not catch in a drowning set, then they will chew on the portion of their paw that extends below the jaws, once the circulation is cut off. Which typically can result in their escape.
By using a smaller foothold trap, like the #1 or even a #0 to catch raccoons the problem of the chewing below the jaws is limited, due to the lack of space for them to get below the jaws to chew.
Now, what type and size of foothold trap should a serious raccoon trapper use on his water trapline?
Like almost everything in life the answer comes by way of a compromise.
As a result of my 50 years of experience trapping muskrats, mink and raccoon on a water trapline, I recommend the using a # 1.5 coilspring trap. It is compact and fast with tremendous holding power. It is heavy enough to quickly drown any muskrat or mink, given adequate water depth. It also will normally make an across the pad catch on a raccoons foot.
Your # 1.5 coilspring traps should be equipped with at least two swivels. And the chain should be attached to the middle of the base plate to facilate easy rotation of the trap by the captured furbearer.
Anchoring Systems:
By far the easiest system for anchoring a muskrat, mink and raccoon trap is wire.
It is a fast and cheap means of anchoring a water set.
The problem is what size wire should be used?
Wire size goes by guage, with the smaller the number the bigger the wire.
The standard roll of trappers wire is guage # 14, which will definitely work fine for holding your muskrat and mink, where enough wire is provide to allow them to reach deep water and drown.
But #14 guage wire is not strong enough to hold a raccoon. If you use this small sized wire to anchor your muskrat and mink set then you will eventually lose a trap to a raccoon that will break the wire.
Therefore, it is strongly recommended that you either double up the #14 wire by using two strands or better yet simply use a # 11 guage wire for all your water sets, period.
(Three Anchoring Secrets)
Any time you use wire to anchor a water set for muskrat, mink or raccoon the point where the wire is fastened to the tree, limb or root is the weakest point.
1. Understand that a raccoon will chew every piece of wood into splinters that it can reach. Therefore select only a sollid tree or root of at least 2 inches in diameter as an anchor point.
2. Wire can be easily broken by benting it back and fore in one spot.
Therefore, never make a tight connection of the wire around the tree or root. The wire should be attached so it can swivel around the tree or root. If you use a pliers and twist the wire tight so it won't swivel, then the raccoon can easily break the wire, as it bents back and fore at this fixed point.
3. Raccoons, if made more comfortable by allowing them to reach the dry bank will not fight the foothold trap as hard.
By using a good length of #11 guage wire, sufficient enough to allow the raccoon to gain access to the dry bank and the muskrat and mink to reach deep water, you can have the best of both worlds.
Pocket Set:
By far the easiest and most effective set to construct for raccoons in the pocket set.
This type of set will also take a lot of muskrats and mink.
Simply dig a hole up into a bank at the waters edge using a small shovel. The hole should be from 4" to 6" in diameter and a foot or so deep.
The best location for this type of set is along an overhanging grassy bank.
Select a location by keeping mind that you need something solid for anchoring your trap. I make sure there is a solid tree or strong root system close by, before I start dig a pocket set.
Fish makes a good bait, as well as muskrat meat. If you want to attract mink, then change the bait after several days to keep it fresh. Fish works best during the early part of the season and muskrat work better after freeze up.
You can place the bait in some dry grass and roll it up in a ball and place in the back of the pocket.
Set the 1.5 coilspring trap directly in front of the pocket so it is covered with about 1" of water.
Solidly anchor your trap as discribed above.
Good Luck on your Water Trapline!
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Conibear_Coon.jpg
First, raccoons are not in the least bit trap shy. Therefore, no special covering or camoflaging of the trap is necessary, as with canine trapping.
The biggest challenges you will have in trapping raccoons will be related to the way they aggressively fight a foothold trap, which can lead to excessive foot damage and failure of any poorly installed trap anchoring system.
By far the most humane and effective trap for harvesting raccoons is the 160 or 220 conibear trap. The use of baited chubbies or plastic buckets are extremely effective. But make sure you understand the regulations and restrictions related to where these traps can be used. Release of a non-target animal unhurted is not possible with type of trap, as compared to a foothold trap.
Proper Trap Size:
Water trapping is normally where a beginning trapper will start their trapping adventure.
The furbearers that they will go after are: Muskrats, Mink and Raccoons.
These furbearers all live in the same habitat. Rivers, lakes, streams and ponds will normally have a good populations of all three of these furbearers.
Therefore, setting traps for muskrats and mink will also result in the trapper catching raccoons, even if he is not targeting this furbearer. Which is not normally a problem, since the market value of raccoon pelts is normally fairly good in comparison to muskrats and mink.
The real problem comes due to the fact that a mature raccoon weighing from 12 to 20 pounds is a lot harder to keep restrained with a foothold trap, that was originally set to handle only a 1 to 3 pound muskrat or mink.
Muskrat and mink traps are normally size #1 or #1 1/2, which surprisingly is also a good sized trap for effectively holding even the largest raccoon by their paw.
In fact, a small foothold trap is much better than a large foothold trap, when it comes to raccoon trapping.
The exception is the # 1 1/2 longspring trap, which might be a good mink and muskrat trap, but it is a very poor raccoon trap, due to the fact that it captures the raccoon too high on their foot.
A raccoon caught in a #1 foothold trap will normally have the trap jaws across the pad of their foot, rather than higher up their foot. An across the pad catch, therefore does not put undue strain on the raccoons foot and they normally will not fight the trap unduly.
However, where raccoons and mink are not catch in a drowning set, then they will chew on the portion of their paw that extends below the jaws, once the circulation is cut off. Which typically can result in their escape.
By using a smaller foothold trap, like the #1 or even a #0 to catch raccoons the problem of the chewing below the jaws is limited, due to the lack of space for them to get below the jaws to chew.
Now, what type and size of foothold trap should a serious raccoon trapper use on his water trapline?
Like almost everything in life the answer comes by way of a compromise.
As a result of my 50 years of experience trapping muskrats, mink and raccoon on a water trapline, I recommend the using a # 1.5 coilspring trap. It is compact and fast with tremendous holding power. It is heavy enough to quickly drown any muskrat or mink, given adequate water depth. It also will normally make an across the pad catch on a raccoons foot.
Your # 1.5 coilspring traps should be equipped with at least two swivels. And the chain should be attached to the middle of the base plate to facilate easy rotation of the trap by the captured furbearer.
Anchoring Systems:
By far the easiest system for anchoring a muskrat, mink and raccoon trap is wire.
It is a fast and cheap means of anchoring a water set.
The problem is what size wire should be used?
Wire size goes by guage, with the smaller the number the bigger the wire.
The standard roll of trappers wire is guage # 14, which will definitely work fine for holding your muskrat and mink, where enough wire is provide to allow them to reach deep water and drown.
But #14 guage wire is not strong enough to hold a raccoon. If you use this small sized wire to anchor your muskrat and mink set then you will eventually lose a trap to a raccoon that will break the wire.
Therefore, it is strongly recommended that you either double up the #14 wire by using two strands or better yet simply use a # 11 guage wire for all your water sets, period.
(Three Anchoring Secrets)
Any time you use wire to anchor a water set for muskrat, mink or raccoon the point where the wire is fastened to the tree, limb or root is the weakest point.
1. Understand that a raccoon will chew every piece of wood into splinters that it can reach. Therefore select only a sollid tree or root of at least 2 inches in diameter as an anchor point.
2. Wire can be easily broken by benting it back and fore in one spot.
Therefore, never make a tight connection of the wire around the tree or root. The wire should be attached so it can swivel around the tree or root. If you use a pliers and twist the wire tight so it won't swivel, then the raccoon can easily break the wire, as it bents back and fore at this fixed point.
3. Raccoons, if made more comfortable by allowing them to reach the dry bank will not fight the foothold trap as hard.
By using a good length of #11 guage wire, sufficient enough to allow the raccoon to gain access to the dry bank and the muskrat and mink to reach deep water, you can have the best of both worlds.
Pocket Set:
By far the easiest and most effective set to construct for raccoons in the pocket set.
This type of set will also take a lot of muskrats and mink.
Simply dig a hole up into a bank at the waters edge using a small shovel. The hole should be from 4" to 6" in diameter and a foot or so deep.
The best location for this type of set is along an overhanging grassy bank.
Select a location by keeping mind that you need something solid for anchoring your trap. I make sure there is a solid tree or strong root system close by, before I start dig a pocket set.
Fish makes a good bait, as well as muskrat meat. If you want to attract mink, then change the bait after several days to keep it fresh. Fish works best during the early part of the season and muskrat work better after freeze up.
You can place the bait in some dry grass and roll it up in a ball and place in the back of the pocket.
Set the 1.5 coilspring trap directly in front of the pocket so it is covered with about 1" of water.
Solidly anchor your trap as discribed above.
Good Luck on your Water Trapline!
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/medium/Conibear_Coon.jpg