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View Full Version : Using my new Bitzenburger




PackerFan
09-08-2006, 11:38 AM
I have a question about using my Bitz. I was so frustrated last night....

When using the bitz I couldn't figure for the life of me why the nock wasn't lining up with the arrows when using the 3 120 degree setting. So I figured the nock point was messed up or something. Then to find that it's lining the feathers so that the odd vane is perpendicular to the slot on the nock - like firing a traditional bow with no dropaway rest. Is this right? So after I fletch an arrow, do I need to reajust the knock in the arrow to line it up so the odd vane points up when using my dropaway? If I do that, do you need to add glue to those knocks? I noticed one of mine is real loose anyway.

Also when adding displacement, should I move both the front and rear knobs, just the front, or either?

How much displacement can you get out of the straight clamp?

If I ever wanted to go helical, can I just buy the clamp?

Thanks for all the help so far guys. It's hard learning all this stuff with nobody to ask except the boards and the pro shop guys (which is out of the way).




Fulldrw
09-08-2006, 11:44 AM
I just turn the nock to line up with the cock vane after I get done fletching the arrow. You do not glue the nocks ever! If you have a loose one it may be a damaged arrow, check that out, because it may be dangerous to shoot it.
Yes, you can buy a helical clamp.

Grouse Hunter
09-08-2006, 01:36 PM
Try to move the clamp equal distance on both ends to get an offset.

harrisonhunter
09-08-2006, 01:47 PM
I just used a bitz for the first time.

Put the fletching on and rotate your nock accordinly

MuskyDan
09-08-2006, 01:53 PM
if you're using allums. just cut the nock of when you are done and put on a new one. Carbons have a rotating nock just turn it into place. Wood arrows lightly glue nock on so that it can easily be removed and positioned.

carp_assasin
09-08-2006, 04:37 PM
If it bothers you that much, you could buy the TM style nock receiver, I think that fletches them cock feather up, or down. But it's $15 more dollars on top of the $70 you just spent. But if you shoot aluminums, and glue in your nocks, it may be your only choice.

Good luck,
Ben

PackerFan
09-08-2006, 05:56 PM
So I've got one person saying not to glue the knock and another saying it's OK? They're aluminum arrows. I looked at the knock that I took out of one arrow and it didn't really look like there was any old glue on them. Maybe it's only a drop?

Grouse Hunter
09-08-2006, 06:00 PM
Most aluminums come with uni bushings. They dont need glue. Some shafts have a tapered nock where the nocks had to be glued on. You pretty much dont see those anymore. IF you have the uni bushings, dont glue the nocks.

harrisonhunter
09-10-2006, 01:01 PM
http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/100_3046.JPG
Here is a pic of my arrows that I just finished with the bitz.

The blazers are super durable...

Fulldrw
09-10-2006, 05:47 PM
So I've got one person saying not to glue the knock and another saying it's OK? They're aluminum arrows. I looked at the knock that I took out of one arrow and it didn't really look like there was any old glue on them. Maybe it's only a drop?

Sorry, I just assumed that you had carbon arrows. My bad!

TnRidge
09-10-2006, 07:57 PM
If using aluminum arrows with the tapered ends , just put the nock on snug without gluing it until you are done with that arrow .
Keep in mind , your fletchings are equal distance around the shaft with 3 vanes spaced 120 degrees apart . A cock vane is used as a reference , but the spacing is no different than the other fletchings . Just rotate the nock to give you the best clearance for the particular rest you are using .

PackerFan
09-11-2006, 05:46 PM
Thanks folks for the input. I've fletched 3 arrows and they look pretty good with the exception of some tiny glue "beads" that showed up on the edge of some of the veins. Now I need the weather to clear up so I can try shooting them outside.