#2 coilsprings

[mhodnettjr]

Well i know that a couple of days ago captain northwood asked about #2 traps as a coyote/cat/fox trap. I have some #2 traps that arent much good. but i got a box today of duke #2 traps, i have mostly all #3 traps and wanted a few to go after fox with. These traps are little monsters, I dont know how long the springs will stay as strong as they are, but they are so tough i cant set them in my hands, GOOD STUFF. i have been adjusting them tonight and things seem to be pretty good. I know that everyone has their own oppinion but so far..with a little adjustment these traps perform as well as any of my more expensive traps.

mike

[hunter5054]

good luck with those this fall mike

[wild bill]

the ones i had last year worked good too but without baseplating and laminations i wont use them for yotes again.

[DROPTINE 14]

4coil-baseplate-laminate-center swivel or sell ,they wont last

[FREEPOP]

the ones i had last year worked good too but without baseplating and laminations i wont use them for yotes again.

they yotes pretty hard on them Bill?

That's what I got, #2 Dukes

I believe that's what Mark June was demonstrating with

[griffondog]

FREEPOP

Mark June uses Sleepy Creek 1.75 traps. He has been trying to get me to switch over for the last 3 years. I still use mostly no 2 montgomery traps. All my no 3's are Sleepy creeks.


Griffondog

[FREEPOP]

FREEPOP

Mark June uses Sleepy Creek 1.75 traps. He has been trying to get me to switch over for the last 3 years. I still use mostly no 2 montgomery traps. All my no 3's are Sleepy creeks.


Griffondog


Thanks, Griffondog. They are very similar in appearance from what I got to see.

[mhodnettjr]

4coil-baseplate-laminate-center swivel or sell ,they wont last


I am pretty sure that our very own northcountry uses #2 dukes almost exclusively and is pretty happy with them. I will not try and start a trap war here but i expect good things from these traps and i think they will serve me well.
mike

[ratherBhuntin]

The Duke #2's ARE strong lil buggers, your right about that. I just bought some Dukes the other day(two #2's, two #1 1/2's) and they do seem like they will deffinately do the darn thing, thats for sure. I couldnt set em with my hand either, usually I can use my hands with my knee, but not with these guys! I finished boilin the scent out yesterday(they were full of grease and oil) and I plan on waxin and dyin them tomorrow. Is waxing and dying absolutely neccesary, or is that for weather-proofing??

Keep me posted on how they work for ya, Mike.
-Denny

[Northcountry]

northcountry uses #2 dukes almost exclusively and is pretty happy with them.

That is correct. I have no doubt that there are better-built traps out there, but all I can say is that with my setup...I have yet to experience a single bit of damage to my traps. The stock frames have never been bent, even the slightest bit.

I think the chain attachment point is the biggest factor in reducing unwanted stress (bending) of the frame. Just consider the direction of forces applied. Also, very short chains will minimize the amount of lunging that a coyote can do.

In respect to laminating, the new Duke offsets already have a very large jaw face. Most people feel that further lams are not necessary, from posts I have read, elsewhere.

Again, just speaking from my personal experience with a few-dozen fiesty coyotes and one very ticked-off pit bull, I have complete confidence in the durability of my (new style) Duke #2's. I will report any damage or failures, if and when I see them.

[mhodnettjr]

The Duke #2's ARE strong lil buggers, your right about that. I just bought some Dukes the other day(two #2's, two #1 1/2's) and they do seem like they will deffinately do the darn thing, thats for sure. I couldnt set em with my hand either, usually I can use my hands with my knee, but not with these guys! I finished boilin the scent out yesterday(they were full of grease and oil) and I plan on waxin and dyin them tomorrow. Is waxing and dying absolutely neccesary, or is that for weather-proofing??

Keep me posted on how they work for ya, Mike.
-Denny

Denny

you will most definetly want to wax your traps if you are using them on the land line. The reasons are to seal off the odors and have a scent free trap, to make the trap fire quickly, and to prevent rust...a trap that is rusting while in the ground, its said that a trap that is already rusty and dyed is ok, but leaving an untreated trap in the ground to rust while key a canines nose as to trouble.

mike

[skidway]

Dye sticks to the trap better when the trap has a fine coat of rust on it already. Dying new (unrusted) traps is sort of a waste of time; just wax and go if you have the mill scale and oil off them. Who's going to see them when they're buried?They'll rust up soon enough, dyed and waxed or just waxed. First catch and it's back to shiney anyway. Dye doesn't stop rust; wax does to a point. Sort of like fishing lures. You buying (dying) them for the fish or for you? But I've been told I don't know squat numerous times so don't listen to me.