Installing battery switch

[WALLEYE MIKE]

I'm going with 2 batteries on my boat. I have a Perko switch which has Batt. 1 and Batt. 2 and both.

Question is where do I "connect" the assesories wires. Do I connect to the "feed" terminal along with the starter positive cable.

How about the negative wires. My thought would be put them on Batt. 1 and cable to the other battery via a parallel cable to batt. 2.

[MSteven]

That would be the proper way.

BTW, nice talking to you this morning.
Mark

[WALLEYE MIKE]

Got'er done. Had a slow drain on the original battery,replaced it with a new one. Don't know if its the battery or wiring at this point.

Next project is an on board charger.

[roger23]

Gauthier done. Had a slow drain on the original battery,replaced it with a new one. Don't know if its the battery or wiring at this point.

Next project is an on board charger.

Mike the Sportcraft I just sold had the same problem it would kill my battery in a couple weeks of non use I took the hot lead off the battery then touched it to the battery it had a small arc had to be in the dark to see it very well I went one by one disconnecting my electronics the last thing I checked the bilge pump switch was doing it replaced it no more problems Trouble shooting can be a real pain ;)

[Ed Michrina]

I put one on my boat years ago per directions. It did fine. To long ago to recall the exact instillation.

On all my Switches for the bat's --Do not switch from one bat to another while the engine is running.

[jpollman]

I've got a "leak" somewhere too. Last year after I put the boat into service after getting it I took her out for a shakedown cruise and she worked fine. I got it home and just let it sit. I didn't use it again for a couple of weeks. I went to check things and found the battery pretty well drained. I couldn't find anything off hand so I just started to disconnect the positive lead whenever I finished putting the boat on the trailer so it hasn't been a problem. Well with all of the electrical issues I've had lately I got my ammeter out and checked to see what the draw was with everything off. I think it was drawing like 1.4 amps or something like that. Well I found one thing and took care of it and now I've got the drain down do about 89 milliamps. That's not too bad really. I've got two positive leads to connect. One is to the engine/starter and the other is the positive lead for the rest of the electric on the boat. If I check them separately, the engine lead is drawing only 3 milliamps and the other lead draws 79 milliamps. Once I get my new stator installed and working I'm going to try and troubleshoot the rest of the current drain but at this point I've got no problem with just disconnecting the positive lead when I'm done with the boat for the day.

John

[Ed Michrina]

If you feel there is a short. wiggle and jiggle the wires at night in the dark. sometimes it works finding a short.

[WALLEYE MIKE]

I know I got 2 small drains. One is the lighted radio face with the clock and the other is the manual lighted bildge pump switch (DNR requirement).

Will check daily on the new battery to see if that drains.

Ed, my instructions say not to put the switch in the off postition while the engine is running. Nothing about bat. to bat. while running.

[roger23]

I'm going with 2 batteries on my boat. I have a Perko switch which has Batt. 1 and Batt. 2 and both.

Question is where do I "connect" the accessories wires. Do I connect to the "feed" terminal along with the starter positive cable.

How about the negative wires. My thought would be put them on Batt. 1 and cable to the other battery via a parallel cable to batt. 2.

Mike try this it may help I think my directions on my old boat also said not to switch with engine running

http://www.perko.com/Perko Catalog/105-120/lfbbs.pdf

it is on page 114 & 115 If I knew how to use this dam computer I would have copied it

[jpollman]

Mike,
as you know I've been doing a lot of work on my charging system lately. Outboard systems are little bit different than I/O's but not that much. My service manual states that you're not supposed to disconnect the battery while the engine is running or damage to the charging system will occur. You just don't want to destroy something!

Good luck!

John

[FishTales]

Mike,
I have the Perko Switch also ( 1-all-2-off) for 20 years now, instructions said "Do not change settings with engine running"
Something about changing the load on the charging system could cause damage.
Rich

[WALLEYE MIKE]

I'll reread the instuctions again.

Fixed the power drain. Bad cell in the battery.

[WALLEYE MIKE]

Mine is a Guest and says "never be turned to the "off" postition with engine running." Its says nothing about switching between 1 and 2.

But I'll follow you guys.

[WALLEYE MIKE]

Update, mine is a "make before break" unit. That means I can switch from battery to battery while engine is running. But can not turn to off while running.

[The Whale]

I may be incorrect, but that "moment" in time when your turning the control from "Batt 1" to "Batt 2", electrically is going to feel like OFF ! No continuous power feed. Can't see the desire or need to switch from one battery to another while under way anyhow though. Good luck. ;)

[roger23]

Update, mine is a "make before break" unit. That means I can switch from battery to battery while engine is running. But can not turn to off while running.

is this like yours I like this better than the Perko I had




GU1006 Category:
ELECTRICAL-Battery Switches

GUEST 2111 Battery Switch

Description: 2111A Battery selector switch without alternator field disconnect (AFD), polycarbonate with sweep contacts. 230 Amps continuous, 345 Amps momentary made from UL 94-HB, UV stabilized polycarbonate. High-impact black molded case impervious to petroleum-based liquids.

[WALLEYE MIKE]

Yup, mine the 2111A model.