Deer blind windows

[dannich]

Hi all
I am in the final stges of building my blind.
I have 1/2 inch thick plexi glass windows that open to the inside and lift up toward the roof in the blind. I was wondering what some of the others here use in there blinds to hold there windows up in place?????

Just looking for some different ideas
Thanks

[Liv4Huntin']

1/16" black nylon rope or parachute cord through small hole in bottom of plex. run through small pulley or eye screw in ceiling. That way the window can be opened and closed by pulling on the cord, without waving your arms around in front of the window. Using black would be if the inside of your blind was dark.

A loop in the end of the cord then hooks over another eye screw, screwed into the wall lower left or right of the window to keep it in the raised/open position.
~ m ~

[QuakrTrakr]

You could bolt a hook through the bottom of the window, then use dog chain screwed to the ceiling of the blind that hangs down. That way you just hook the hook through the chain. And it's adjustable by using different links in the chain.

[Robow]

The windows I make now slid up and down instead of flipping inside and hitting a chair and getting in the way.

The one I'm building now is my 7th blind. I think I've got it figured out now.

[Mags]

The one window out of plexiglass I use in my blind is in a 1x2 wooden frame routed with a groove for the plex to fit into, making it a slider. I then drilled a small hole for a screw and small wooden knob to be able to slide it. Simple and it works out pretty well.

[Pauly3511]

Mine fold down instead of up I like it alot better. i hunted in texas one time and took the idea from a box blind there. So when the window comes down it doesnt need to be lached or roped off on the wood where the window comes down i put self adering weather stripping the foam stuff so no noise is made when i flop them in.

[Burksee]

Whether you use an up, down, side or slide design for your windows I've discovered that putting a awning/overhang/ledge over the window long enough to bock the sun out of the window takes the glare off the glass/plexi.

One of the guys in our club says he's been busted everytime he opened the window on the front of his blind. Even without making any noise or unnecassary movements. Didnt find out til out infront of the blind one day when my buddy opened the window that glare/movement off of the window was herendance! I thought "Wow" no wonder he never shoots any deer outa this blind. Cut and nailed about a 18" wide piece of plywood the width of the window, mounted it at about a 15 degree angle over the window and viola! No more glare on/off the window! They looked as dark as the back ground inside the blind and you had to be stairing right at the window to see even the slightest of difference from closed to open. He's since shot several deer outa that blind and I'm sold on the technique! :)

[bawplank]

robow, If youve built seven blinds id be interested in your final plan you have decided on, im about to build my second and you could save me a few years and blinds. thanks

[target-panic]

robow, If youve built seven blinds id be interested in your final plan you have decided on, im about to build my second and you could save me a few years and blinds. thanks

:yeahthat: Show us some pics & share the knowledge.....I'm getting ready to build one myself...... Can't wait to try out my new nail gun.

[D_Hunter]

One the ways we do our windos is....

Mount the window to the outside of the blind (window & frame slightly bigger then the opening). Use an eye bolt at the bottom of the window. We drill a small hole to run the rope through the wall of the blind above the window opening and tie it off to the eye bolt. This lets us raise the window to what every height to help block out wind/rain/snow. (This also uses the window as an "awning" when its raining to help keep rain off the scope)

The opposite end of the rope we either loop or use a large washer and have several screws in the wall for proper window opening highth.

I'm still trying to come up with a good "slider" window for our blinds though....

[Robow]

robow, If youve built seven blinds id be interested in your final plan you have decided on, im about to build my second and you could save me a few years and blinds. thanks

I'd love to help. If I get time tonight I'll take some pics of the one in progress.

The basic specs are:
4'x6' platform
6'6" interior height
35" window height
Gambrel roof (barn)

The first thing I would do is rip plenty of 2x2s. When you think you ripped enough rip more cuz you haven't.

[QuakrTrakr]

One the ways we do our windos is....

Mount the window to the outside of the blind (window & frame slightly bigger then the opening). Use an eye bolt at the bottom of the window. We drill a small hole to run the rope through the wall of the blind above the window opening and tie it off to the eye bolt. This lets us raise the window to what every height to help block out wind/rain/snow.
I think it's better to have the window on the INSIDE. That way there is no reflection off the glass, and there is no moving part's outside your blind. I have mine flip down . If there is any glare, it'll go up in the air. Sliders are probably best for that, but trying to get the window to move quietly is the challenge along with getting a good seal. I think real glass would be better than plexi for that. The MAIN thing to remember is to wait until the deer is not looking before moving anything. Like bowhunting.

[hunting man]

I have sat in the same coop for several years and would hate to suffer on a stump again. I can sit all day without being uncomfortable. I leave the main shooting windows open at all times. Leave the heater on and dont have to worry about the fumes this way. I have built 7 coops and will be adding more as the boys reach hunting age this year and next. I like them 6x6 and 7 feet tall. All the windows open to the inside and to the bottom. The roof slopes to the rear so rain and snow melt dont drip in my vision. I paint the inside all black to cover up any motion I might make. Carpet is used for the floor to keep mine silent if I need/happen to move around. The awning over the windows on the south sides are helpfull to keep the blind dark inside. Dont make th windows too big or you will get busted moving around too easy. Mine are 10 inches at the most tall.

[Robow]

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/000101120000.JPG

[Robow]

http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/photopost/data/500/0001011200003.JPG

[Munsterlndr]

Great pics Robow. I use the same dimensions for my ground blinds,
4 x 6 x 6.6. A couple of questions, why the gambrel style roof? Seems like it would take a whole lot more work than just a standard pitched roof? Do you build gambrel shaped trusses? I'm guessing that you use these blinds for bowhunting, hence the higher roof and the little window on the gable end? Also, what is the dog house thing on the side for? Gear storage? heater?

I build each wall for my blinds in my workshop, where I can use power tools and then transport the completed walls and assemble them on site. I don't put a window in the back wall to avoid being silhouetted. I also use 2 x 2's ( I agree rip plenty) and secure them with construction adhesive and a nail gun. I'll try and post a few pics of one of mind in different stages later today.

[Robow]

Great pics Robow. I use the same dimensions for my ground blinds,
4 x 6 x 6.6. A couple of questions, why the gambrel style roof? Seems like it would take a whole lot more work than just a standard pitched roof? Do you build gambrel shaped trusses? I'm guessing that you use these blinds for bowhunting, hence the higher roof and the little window on the gable end? Also, what is the dog house thing on the side for? Gear storage? heater?

I build each wall for my blinds in my workshop, where I can use power tools and then transport the completed walls and assemble them on site. I don't put a window in the back wall to avoid being silhouetted. I also use 2 x 2's ( I agree rip plenty) and secure them with construction adhesive and a nail gun. I'll try and post a few pics of one of mind in different stages later today.

The gambrel roof dosen't take any more time really. The main reason for it though is it is alot easier to put together in the field. This type has four smaller panels instead of two, no trusses.

Yes the lean-to on the side is for storage. It can get hot in August scouting deer so I build it big enough for a cooler:corkysm55

We do not bowhunt out of these blinds but have put platforms underneath so we could bowhunt in the rain if we wanted.