View Full Version : Coming Unglued
stormcrow
09-15-2005, 07:48 PM
I recently began re-fletching my old aluminum 2315s and found that while my new 5 inch vanes work well for a while (25-50 shots) eventually the fletching cement fails. I am using Fletch Tite cement, fletching the arrows without a helical and being careful to completely remove the old glue. I have tried cleaning the arrow shaft with mineral spirits and steel wool but my arrows continue to de-fletch themselves. Any advice?
put a drop at the very front leading edge of the vane. This is a seperate step from the actual cementing of the vanes. I find that it helps protect the tip of the vane that tends to catch and peel back as it goes through the target. Some types of targets tear em up worse than others.
Might try a new tube - you may have an old batch of cement too
GVDocHoliday
09-15-2005, 08:09 PM
What kind of vanes are you using? If you're using duravanes or flex fletch or tru flight or anything other than bohning you're probably not going to get very good adhesion.
I've never been able to get duravaves to bond good to aluminum using fletch tite, but bohning vanes hold on something fierce.
If you're using duravanes or anything else, I highly recommend you use bohning quantum xt adhesive. This is more of a super glue adhesive and dries in a minute or two and you can shoot em right away. Regular fletch tite requires at least a 24 hour or longer curing period.
If you're stuck on the vanes you want to use (no pun intended) just try the xt adhesive you should be good to go.
carp_assasin
09-15-2005, 08:33 PM
Also, try using some acetone on the Quill part of the vane (if there is such a thing) to remove the mold release agent.
Good luck,
Ben
stormcrow
09-16-2005, 06:42 PM
I am using Bohning vanes and have also been putting a drop of glue at the front and rear of each vane. The target I’m using stops my arrows very quickly, they never sink to the fletching and I am having no vane contact with the arrow rest. The vanes just seem to fall off after a while. I will try cleaning the base of my vanes with acetone and using the Quantum XT glue. Who knows how long my tube of Fletch-Tite sat on the shelf at Gander Mountain before I bought it? It never occurred to me that the stuff might have a shelf life. Thank you all for your input.
Adam
PITBULL
09-16-2005, 08:18 PM
Clean the arrow shaft with rubbing alcohol. then dip the shaft in Bohning Fletch-Lac. Let dry in a clean place then fletch your arrow with Bohning Fletch-tite.
They make dipping tubes for this, I just use a piece of 3/4" tubing capped at one end. You only need to dip the last 8" or so of the arrow. Just be sure to remove the nock or replace it after dipping. the Fletch-Lac will soften the nock.
outfishin_
09-19-2005, 02:09 PM
Is that the stuff that comes in a plastic bottle and is powder and you add water and mix it...then dip the shafts into it?
Clean the arrow shaft with rubbing alcohol. then dip the shaft in Bohning Fletch-Lac. Let dry in a clean place then fletch your arrow with Bohning Fletch-tite.
They make dipping tubes for this, I just use a piece of 3/4" tubing capped at one end. You only need to dip the last 8" or so of the arrow. Just be sure to remove the nock or replace it after dipping. the Fletch-Lac will soften the nock.
Oct.1
09-19-2005, 03:12 PM
What fletching tool are you using?
I had that problem with an ez-fletch. It just wouldn’t close tight enough. Changed to a Grayling. Similar to the Bitzenburger, but the Grayling was less expensive.
stormcrow
09-19-2005, 08:42 PM
I am using the grayling jig as well. I don’t think my problem is with the fletching jig. It is either the adhesive or the finish on my arrows. Being something of a newbie at the art of refletching arrows, I’ve never even heard of Fletch-Lac. Might have to pick some up if my problems continue. Trying to decide whether or not, to just strip the vanes from the all of the two dozen arrows I refletched last week. Lost three vanes so far. The shame is that my arrows are flying really well, at least until the vanes peel off.
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