Center Shot Tuning Aids

[JacknCoke]

Has anyone had any success with the tools available for setting center shot. I see two types available with significant costs differential.

The one is Mechanical and has Hex Rods that secure into the limb adjustment bolts and a scale. The other is a Laser that mounts into the sight mount holes.

Any input is greatly appreciated. After two different shops I'm still not confident that my Center Shot is on. Just eyeballing it, it does not appear to be in alignment. Rest needs to come way right when holding bow in shooting position. When I do this my field tip groupings get significantly tighter, but I've yet to get my broadheads to tune. Left, left, left no matter what I seem to do.

Just wondering if there worth the money before I buy or if I should just eyeball it and continue to try and get things on target by moving the rest.

[Kelly Johnson]

The laser works most of the time. If the bow isn't symetrical or the riser isn't completely straight or the sight mounting holes are off just a hair....it won't help at all.

I used the Hex style (from Golden Key I think) for a long time but honestly just eyeball it now and use the tool of I'm having issues later on.

FOR MOST BOWS....if you can find a way to get behind the bow and have it come as close to even as possible from you line of sight. By this I mean, I'll take my AR and vice it and nock an arrow...close one eye and move behind it till the string runs from the cam...DIRECTLY TRHOUGH the tap mounts in the back of the riser. With my Ar ram.5 the arrow should be equally bisected by the string from my line of sight in this position (and my sight should be just a hair left of it).


Did that make any sense at all?


This will change from bow to bow though...depends on the symetry of the bow, cam system etc...but once it's "IN" take a looong hard look and remember what it looks like.

[JacknCoke]

Thanks and yes it makes some sense. It's pretty much what I did last night, just wasn't sure if the tapped hole in my riser was the true center line or not. I just can't believe it was off that much given that I had it set by a shop. My groupings were a lot nicer at 20 and 30 but I still couldn't get the

Am I following the right rationale for tuning. Set Center Shot, Sight in at 20yd. Follow with some longer distance group tuning from 30 and 40 and then broadhead tune? And possibly shoot through paper just for reference and some confirmation.

I'm seeing now (from another thread) that I don't need to sweat too much about my earlier frustrations with the paper tune. But I'm still wondering if my broadhead tuning issues goes back to my arrows being to stiff and the shop having my center shot way off to compensate in order to get a good paper tune.

I'm really learning that confidence in your set up is paramount to any success and that doesn't come without being anal as someone else has posted.

[Kelly Johnson]

My routine is like this...

Set center shot ...Eyeball and shoot at 10 and 20 yards without really worring about POI but aiming nonetheless. The riser-string-eye thing works for windage for elevation I run the arrow through the hole(s) and have someone draw it and look to see if the arrow is parrallel to the cable gaurd rod at full draw (a LITTLE nock high seems to be best on my setup but start parrallel).

Adjust sight to have my 20 pin hit at 20.
Step back to 25-30 and use the 20 pin again. Any windage issues and your centershot is off...back to square one. Should hit low (obviously) but I want them grouping very tight.

Back to 35 and the same thing. Once your windage is straight I sight in the other pins at their respective yardages.

That's generally all I do unless it's my hunting rig and is it is...

Ouside with Bheads at 20. One Bhead followed by a field tip at the same spot. Again at another spot. If they're on I move to 30-35 and repeat. If that's cool I'm done with field points and it's Bhead practice with that bow till season.

If not...If the Bhead shoots low and left of the field point adjust your rest up and right to compensate.

Small adjustments may not even change your POI with the field tips but if it does...don't worry. Shoot for groups btw the Bheads and field points till they're grouping the same....And THAN re-adjust your sights to the respective yardages again.

Also, when I get my bow locked on and stacking I take numerous measurements and record them. Brace, tiller, Peep to nock-axle, nock to axle on both sides, weight, length, speed with a given arrow and it's weight-tip-fletch-nock, measure center shot etc.

I have an Excel file setup....if your interested PM me your email and I'll send it to you. Just a blank form you can record your data on but it's very helpfull for me.

[Chuck]

Thats a great idea about writing your bow specs down, I think this would help alot of guys. Course the main thing is being able to find it when you need it:). I lost mine and so far I cant find it, I would check my bow before each season to see that it was the same but this year I cant find it and my string stretched finally this year and I had to retune the bow a little. Now it seems like my broadheads fly better than my field tipps.

Isnt there a way to set center shot by putting an allen wrench in each limb tightening spot and then strectching a rubber band between them? I thought I read this some place but have never tried it.

This year when I had to retune I started with paper and I had bullet holes. Then I walk back tuned to 50 yards. Then I tried broadheads, they where shooting 5" low so I raised my rest a small amount and lowered my loop a small amount until they were hitting center at 20. So far they are grouping well out to 40, I havent been able to shoot out to 50 yet. The adjustments I made were very miner and my field tipps are still in the black too.

[JacknCoke]

I think I just found the perfect rubber band in the filing cabinet. May not work but it's worth a look to save a buck and see if it confirms my eyeballing.

[fulldraw]

For the most part I have to say the laser by Easy Eye is the best thing out their right now. If you use one you will see a signifcant difference in arrow flight and you will become more accurate.

fulldraw

[Kelly Johnson]

On most Bows I agree Fulldraw. I'e seen more than a handfull of models and makes that it just flat out doesn't work on though too ;)