pick my broadhead.....

[ronf]

I'm just getting back into bow hunting. Regardless, I've never taken a deer. I'm shooting about 50-55lbs. and was wondering which broadhead would be good for me. I practice with 100 grain field tips, and carbon sticks. My groups are excellent but I've yet to shoot any broadheads with the carbon arrows. Welcom any suggestions as my experience with different types of broadheads is a big fat 0. I used to use wasp 3 blades with my easton aluminum arrows. Thanks,

Ron

[deputy]

muzzy 3 blade.
stingers Magnus
muzzy phantom

[Sprytle]

Fixed....
Thunderhead 100's
Muzzy 3 blade 100's
NAP crossfire

Expand's
Rocky Mountain Gator 100's
NAP 2 blade 100's
Grim Reaper Troczar Tip 100's

[Michihunter]

G5 Montecs
G5 Montecs or
G5 Montecs!!! :evil: :evil:

[Zulu]

I posted this already somewhere else, but you may want to check out the broadhead testing results posted on the Michigan United Conservation Clubs website (www.mucc.org (http://www.mucc.org)) which aired on Michigan Out-Of-Doors this past Thursday. Here's the direct link. . .

http://www.mucc.org/BroadheadTest.htm.

They have results for both fixed blade and mechanical broadheads. Only a modest amount of broadheads were tested, but enough for you to get the point!

I would recommend a fixed blade for better penetration if your bow is not that fast. Last year I switched back to Thunderhead 100s and have not been disappointed, although I have been looking at Snypers a little more closely after checking out the results of the MUCC test. . . . but of course broadheads are not as important as shot placement.

[Swamp Monster]

Fixed blades are your only choice, stay away from mechanicals as you are not generating enough energy for reliable performance with expandables.
I would look at:
Steelforce 4 blade (non serrated). These are cut on contact with a nice cutting diameter and are easily made scary sharp!

NAP Razorback 4 blade.....Similar in design and performance to the Steelforce.

Mangus Stingers

Or:

Any well made 3 blade replaceable blade broadhead that flies well in your set up.......
Muzzy
Thunderhead
Wasp
Rocky Mountain
Many others....

[HoytKimberShimano]

Well, I am somewhat undecided myself, although the feedback from this forum and results of this weekend have me all but decided to go with the G5 Montecs. They seem to fly and group well. This picture is one of many three shot groups that I had at 20 yds and I didn't any attempt to "tune" the heads in my arrows like I normally would. Straight out of the package.

I made a few shots at 30 yds with similar results and didn't notice any abnormal arrow flight. I usually setup for a 15-25 yd shot and am feeling VERY confident in my setup now. This is good shooting to me, probably mediocre to the rest of you though! (Hopefully the pic works....)

http://www.msu.edu/~wildetim/MontecGroup.JPG

[victor mi pro bowhunter]

wasp

[ArcheryBowdoctor]

BROADHEAD TUNING

By the PSE Engineering Staff



Look at it this way: A broadhead is a field point with wings. Just as a flagpole will react different in a windstorm from one on which the Stars and Strips is waving, so will an arrow with a broadhead attached, versus a field point. That is just part of the story.

Anyone who has had the opportunity to anguish over the flight characteristics of different broadheads as hunting season approaches knows that there is much more to matching a broadhead to a particular shooting setup than merely wind resistance. Moreover, the bowhunter knows that tuning is very serious business when it comes down to that “one shot” of the season, not only does the bowhunter want confidence in his bow, he or she wants to know they can put an arrow exactly where it needs to be.

Okay, it’s August, you’ve got your “broadhead of choice.” And you’re giving it a workout on the outdoor range. The arrows are erratic, there’s no consistency, and you’re becoming frustrated. What to do??

Assuming you’re shooting an arrow that you were consistently “ON” with when shooting field points and that you’re overcome and “spinning” problems with a given shaft-you then have handful of “trouble shooting” avenues to take on the road to perfect broadhead flight.

A) Are your centershot and nocking point properly tuned?

Perhaps the arrow (with broadhead attached) is not leaving the bow the way it should. Have you “paper tuned” it with a field point recently? Try it with a broadhead. It could simply be a matter of adjusting the nocking point together with a little fine-tuning of your arrow rest.

B) Are your arrows straight?

And I do mean straight! There are plenty of bowhunters who are incredibly adept in “sight judging” a bent arrow. However, for the majority of us, the use of a mechanical apparatus is necessary. A slightly bent arrow may be the reason for inconsistent groups though it may be much less noticeable when shooting field points. Well, you have introduced another variable with broadheads, this is where the wind resistance begins to play a part, and any shaft abnormality will become more pronounced than with a simple bullet point.

C) Are your nocks true?

A simple spin test can be performed to check for nock alignment. If you find a “wobbler,” remove it, replace it, and check it again. Again, consistency is the key-each nock must be set exactly the same way to help minimize and fletching interference with the rest or handle. The new Center Flite handles help eliminate this problem a great deal.

D) Are your points true?

Obviously, the first step is checking the trueness of each individual broadhead. Check for alignment and consistency in each head by spinning them to check for any wobble or shimming. To reiterate, the slightest in the insert and broadhead alignment will not be obvious when shooting field points, but they become more pronounced when the broadhead is employed.

It is important at this point to stress the obvious- each different make and configuration of broadhead will have different flight characteristics. In fact, even though the manufactures might equivocally deny the fact, there could be a particular broadhead in a batch you have purchased that simply will not tune because of manufacturing irregularities. That is, the blades may have been ground less, or the ferrule (on replaceable blade broadheads) may have been cut incorrectly or inconsistently, causing poor blade position or misalignment. When wracking your brain over broadhead flight and you have closely checked each of your broadheads, you cannot rule out this factor.

When you have gotten the “bugs” out, following, the time arrives take it to the range, or the backyard, as the case may be.

THE SIGHTING-IN CHECK LIST

1) Weight variables

This point may be obvious to many “ picky” shooters, but the weight of the broadheads versus the weight of the field point you have been shooting is of major importance. When stump shooting or practicing in the backyard, always try to use an arrow and head setup that is exactly the same weight as what you will be using when you go after “ole mossy horns.” Then, when the aerodynamic change is made in September, the weight factor will not exist.

2) Paper tuning

Just as paper tuning with field points will aid in the finer points of tuning the nock set and arrow rest, this should also be the case when zeroing-in your broadheads, through many shooters overlook this method may differ (even slightly), the paper tune can often produce surprising results.

3) Pin settings

So, you’re dead-on at 15-20 yards, okay? Well, that’s not enough. Because of the new variables you’re dealing with when shooting broadheads, you must re-sight in each pin setting from the field point setting (you may be amazed).

4) Broadhead sight

For the reasons mentioned in Number 3, it helps to use a setup like the Mongoose 106, in which you can have another sight which can be conveniently switched for field point setting to broadhead settings.

Once you’ve got your eight to 12 broadheads in “perfect running order” on the range, don’t mess with them! When transporting them to your hunting area, it’s always safer to move them from the shafts and keep them protected and safe. Then, upon arrival at your camp, assemble them and repeat the point straightness check. Also remember that a drastic change in elevation will alter arrow flight, so it’s vital to re-check your settings from broadheads on the turf you’re hunting-especially if you’ve traveled to Montana high country from Louisiana bayou!

Even if your broadheads are the exact same weight as the field points you have been practicing with, they will not predictably fly the same way-with each pin setting. They cut through the air differently, and can adversely affected by air movement.

Remember- that bare flagpole in the windstorm- and the one with a huge Old Glory waving from it when the hurricane hits!

[Joe Archer]

Thunderhead, Wasp, Muzzy..... All are good broadheads. The important thing is to tune your bow, and practice with your broadheads enough to be confident when you are in the woods. <----<<<

[Michihunter]

Well, I am somewhat undecided myself, although the feedback from this forum and results of this weekend have me all but decided to go with the G5 Montecs. They seem to fly and group well. This picture is one of many three shot groups that I had at 20 yds and I didn't any attempt to "tune" the heads in my arrows like I normally would. Straight out of the package.

I made a few shots at 30 yds with similar results and didn't notice any abnormal arrow flight. I usually setup for a 15-25 yd shot and am feeling VERY confident in my setup now. This is good shooting to me, probably mediocre to the rest of you though! (Hopefully the pic works....)




That's great shooting for most everyone. It looks like you took a picture from one of my files. Same target, vanes and grouping. You'll be fine with those Montecs.

[mich buckmaster]

Fixed blades are your only choice, stay away from mechanicals as you are not generating enough energy for reliable performance with expandables.
I would look at:
Steelforce 4 blade (non serrated). These are cut on contact with a nice cutting diameter and are easily made scary sharp!

NAP Razorback 4 blade.....Similar in design and performance to the Steelforce.

Mangus Stingers

Or:

Any well made 3 blade replaceable blade broadhead that flies well in your set up.......
Muzzy
Thunderhead
Wasp
Rocky Mountain
Many others....

OH COME ON SWAMP!!!!!!!! You saw what those snypers can do, keep your mechanical opinions to yourself!!!!!!!!! ;) :p :)

Hey if you are thinking about mechanicals at all I would go with the snypers!!

[Swamp Monster]

OH COME ON SWAMP!!!!!!!! You saw what those snypers can do, keep your mechanical opinions to yourself!!!!!!!!! ;) :p :)

Hey if you are thinking about mechanicals at all I would go with the snypers!!


Nothing wrong with Mechanicals! But come on teach, read his post....he's only pulling 50-55 lbs! Now, I'm not sure what bow and how fast etc, but I would never recommend any mechanical for use at those draw weights. Maybe he's shooting a Black Knight or a Black Max at high speed, but with the info present, mechanicals are not a good idea..even those beloved Snypers! ;) :D :D :D