?? for Bowdoctor

[WALLDADY]

Bowdoctor . Nice to have you on the site . My ? is about paper tuneing . I kinda get the idea of what it does but . How far away from the paper do you shoot ? How far from the target is the paper ? Left / right is the centershot ? Adjusted by your arrow rest ? Up / down ? Adjusted at the string knocks ?
Ive never seen it done but hear about it all the time . Maybe you could help with these ??s . Thanks for any info you could give .

Good Luck and Safe Trips ........................ Walldady

[GVDocHoliday]

Usually start off with the paper rack 6' from the bow...you usually want the target bale another 4-5 feet after the tuning rack.

Start off getting your center shot close by eye. You want your nock end about 1/16" above square for starters with your arrows center going aligned with the center of the berger hole (arrow rest screw hole). All your adjustments should come from the arrow rest...up/down and left/right.

Always chase your nock with your field point when making adjustments. If you're getting a nock high tear, move your rest up and vice versa for left/right adjustments. Once you get a good hole at 6', move back to 12' or so and farther and farther back. Basically, a good hole at 6' will carry over at longer distances.

[WALLDADY]

GVDocHoliday , Thanks for the expaination . It all makes sence on how to do it . I think Ill set something up today and give it a try

Thanks again ........... I love MS.COM


Good Luck and Safe Trips ......................... Walldady

[ArcheryBowdoctor]

As GVDocHoliday said.....I shoot from 6 to 8 feet from the paper. and all he said!

I do not put much into paper tuning anymore, yeah it's nice to check it, but most the time it shoots a good hole any how.....

The bottom line is When you adjust the rest and nock on the string, you should have it....and the bow MUST be in tune too....

The past few days I have been adjusting Mathews A/A and Brace to help them shoot better.

Hummmm the good old days when we all thought one cams did not need tuning......:lol: Boy do we know better now days!

Yes check your bow set up by paper shooting, and check it with a broadhead if you like. Do not spend a lot of time getting a "Perfect Bullet Hole" a small tare high is just fine for release shooters.

[Michihunter]

Yes check your bow set up by paper shooting, and check it with a broadhead if you like. Do not spend a lot of time getting a "Perfect Bullet Hole" a small tare high is just fine for release shooters

Man is it nice hearing a professional say that. I've been saying it for years!!

[GVDocHoliday]

Yeah, paper is just a good starting point. I myself don't even shoot through paper anymore...just do a lot of long distance group tuning with field points and broadheads. Once I get them impacting the same, I shoot through paper just to see where it's at, and I'm usually a little nock high/left. But they group tite so it doesn't really concern me.

I've seem some people get so worked up about not being able to get a bullet hole that they almost put down the bow for good.

[ArcheryBowdoctor]

OOOHHHHHHH YEAH!!!

I have seen the same thing....they shoot and shoot for the "Perfect Bullet Hole" and get p'd off and loose confidence in the bow, the shop, and themselves.

Just not worth it!

If it groups good....leave it alone!

[ArcheryBowdoctor]

HOYT USA-Dealer Newsletter


Archery Myths

Paper Tuning &

The “Perfect Bullet Hole”

By Wade Doyle - Hoyt USA Customer Service Manager


Paper tuning for the “perfect bullet hole” is probably one of the most argued subjects in archery. It is also probably one of the least under stood subjects. Archers tend to believe their bow will never shoot perfectly if it can’t shoot a “perfect bullet hole” through paper. As we will discuss, this is just not true!

Shooting an arrow through paper will illustrate your arrow flight at the specific distance you’re shooting from only. If you move back a few feet or up a few feet your tear could be completely different! Obviously, arrow flight is important when tuning your bow. However, even if you can’t shoot a perfect hole, this does not mean your bow is not working right or that you will not be able to shoot tight groups. In fact, many top archers actually tune their bows to get a small ½” or ¾” tear to achieve the best groups. So if you can’t create a perfect bullet hole, don’t panic and give up. Remember that the sole purpose of tuning your bow is to help you attain the tightest groups possible, not to achieve a perfect bullet hole though paper.

The first thing you should do after obtaining a bow is to install all of your accessories. Rough tune the bow and shoot a minimum of 100 shots. Shooting the initial 100 shoots will allow the “shoot in” and will preset the buss cables and string. If you take time to shoot the first 100 shoots without making changes, it will be much easier in the long run to tune your bow.

Once you have completed these steps, you should paper tune your bow several distances. This will help set your bow up for good arrow flight. The following descriptions will help you determine what your paper tears mean. Note these adjustments are for small tears, larger tears may require arrow change. Excessive vertical tears indicate a nocking point adjustment is needed. For a high tear lower your nocking point height slightly. For a low tear raise your nocking point slightly.

Holes with a Right Tear Right Handed Shooters.

A right tear indicates that your arrows are too stiff in spine for the bow’s present weight setting. This applies to a right handed shooter. A left handed archer will have the opposite pattern. To correct this type tear, try one or more of the following:

a) move your arrow rest in toward the bow.

b) increase the bow’s weight setting.

c) use a heavier weight arrow point.

d) decrease your cushion plunger tension if a plunger-type rest is used.

e) try a weaker spined arrow.

Holes with a Left Tear Right Handed Shooters.

A left tear indicates that your arrows are too weak in spine for the bow’s present weight
setting. This applies to a right handed shooter. A left handed archer will have the opposite pattern. To correct this type of tear, try one or more of the following:

a) move your arrow rest out from the bow.

b) decrease the bow’s weight setting.

c) use a lighter weight arrow point.

d) increase your cushion plunger tension if a plunger type rest is used.

e) try a stiffer spined arrow.

These adjustments will also help as you tune for accuracy. It is important to note that any changes you make to the alignment of your rest should be very small. If you find you are having to make major changes, then you are probably using the wrong arrow. The final tuning should include tiller tuning, micro tuning or a verity of other tuning methods.

Once your arrows are grouping tightly at your aiming point, go back and shoot a couple more arrows through paper. This is not to make additional changes to the bow, but to create a reference for the future adjustments. Many times when your bow is perfectly tuned and is grouping well, the hole through paper will not be a perfect bullet hole, but will be slightly off. This is fine, you do not need to have a perfect “bullet hole”. Don’t forget, many top archers say they have a tear that is slightly off after they have finished tuning. Remember, your bow is in tune for you’re shooting style! Accuracy is everything in archery-not necessarily a perfect bullet hole!

[Kelly Johnson]

Good Stuff Dave. Much obliged for sharing brother.

[ArcheryBowdoctor]

No Problem...glad to share!:grouphug:

[Ack]

The past few days I have been adjusting Mathews A/A and Brace to help them shoot better.

Yup, and it shoots great now Dave...Thanks again! :coolgleam

[Michihunter]

Great article BowDoctor. Thanks for sharing!!

[WALLDADY]

Thanks to all for the info and insight . Didnt git-r-dun last wknd , will try again this 1 .
Thanks Again

Good Luck and Safe Trips ...................... Walldady

[GRUNDY]

Proves that an arrow will oscilate for some time after it leaves the bow. Thus, making it nearly impossible to "paper" tune a bow. The biggest thing to be concerned with is if your broadheads are hitting the same spot as your field tips. if this is not happening soemthing is not quite tuned. You could be on the edge of you arrows spine, nock high, etc...

Brian